Need Help Iding Part on an old Marathon

[capthump1]

I got an old marathon running for a friend. it had been laying for 3 years. The engine runs strong,turning right rpms but the cart seems to be not going fast enough. Feels like something is holding it back not the engine. What is the lever in front of the secondary clutch? This lever has nothing connected to it and looks like it might have once been connected to the plastic cover over the clutch, possibly part of the gov?. Can I remove the cover it's broken and I saw in another thread it was missing. Also it goes in gear hard you have to rev it up before it starts to move with a jerk. I'm thinking the weights might be stuck from sitting and using it will help it out. Also going to loose the oil pump and premix at 128:1.

[BrewCityMusic]

That lever is the governor actuator, it attaches to a cable that runs up to your carb. As the driven clutch expands at higher speeds, the button at the top of that cover makes contact with the governor actuator (arm) and throttles your engine back, preventing over-revving.

Those caps are like $8 at Buggies Unlimited, best to replace it to keep dust, mud, etc out of the driven clutch (which it sounds like you may already have in there by the way it's acting "grabby"). At the top of the cap, btw, there's a little nylon "wear button" - if youre still has it remove it carefully for use on the new cover or you're loking at another $4 or so for a new one. When I replaced my cap I sprayed out the clutch the best I could with brake cleaner, it was a little "slippy" for an hour or so but definitely smoothed it out.

As to restoring the governor, that's your call but even I (and my driven quest for speed) have hooked mine back up since I got a tach and realized just how often I was over-redlining the engine (it didn't sound like I was pushing it too hard but the tach showed me the fact that I was, and quite often!) ... Especially if the cart is going to have multiple drivers, prob best to set it up just for the safety of your engine if nothing else. I lost about 2mph hooking mine up, a small price to pay for peace of mind!

128:1 is a good thing - make sure you plug the intake elbow's hole where the oiler fed when you remove it, or you'll run like poo-poo. You can either cut the line (leaving the fitting) and just plug the line with a screw OR find a short bolt that fits into the threaded hole on the intake elbow and use a little RTV on it to make sure it's plugged all the way.

[capthump1]

If it ever stops raining I'll try spraying the clutch with brake cleaner. I don't know about the governor, looks like nothing there, there is a cable running from the carb linkage to under the gas tank but nothing to that lever. That lever has a small round end on it, does that go into the hole on the plastic cover on the driven clutch? Then where does the cable or linkage on the lever go? Thers nothing on it now. The other end where it connects to the carb is where you adjust it, it looks like it would not do any good the way it is now the cable would have to be pulled back about 2" before it even touches the linkage.

[BrewCityMusic]

I'll snap a pic of the assemblies in the morning and post them for you - that will make this a lot easier to explain for both of us! :)

[capthump1]

Thanks that WILL make it easier. I know my workhorse inside out... this thing ???? It runs like a bear though, reminds me of my old Yamaha G1. My friend's son got it for nothing, the guy put on a new starter, wired it wrong and it was fried, I got another starter on ebay, figured out the wiring, replaced the battery and it fired right up. Had to pull the carb and clean it but thats expected after laying three years. Need to find a roof some where around the NJ,NY, PA area. roof has big hole in it.

[BrewCityMusic]

My cart had sat for a couple of years too - I always thought "I should stop and see what that guy wants for it" as I drove by it like 4x a week, sitting half under a tarp on an old trailer ... Turned out one day I was talking with a buddy of mine and carts came up, that's when I found out the cart was HIS and it had a freshly rebuilt motor but only ran for a weekend after the rebuild and had sat at his grandpas place since - $60 cash and an afternoon's hassle extricating the trailer, loading the cart on 4 rotten tires, etc and she was mine!

Of course, that was like $700 and about 100hrs ago, heh heh

[BrewCityMusic]

Alright, here's a pic of the basic clutch cover/ governor actuator assembly:



As you can see, there's a small nylon "wear button" on the end of the cover, that's what makes contact with the arm as the clutch expands, causing the arm to pull on the cable that's attached to the other end of the arm (and that cable goes to the carb).

Here's the link to the replacement cover and button assembly: http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/prod...T%20EZ1%200207

The cover itself is $9, or if you buy the cover and the wear button as a kit it's $11.99. Once you get your new one installed, PM me and I'll send you some more pics and lead you through setting the carb end, if you need. Also, make sure as long as you have it all apart that you disassemble the pivot for the governor arm (it's a simple removal, just loosen the nut on top of the arm and it'll come apart) and clean the bushings thoroughly so it moves freely (a little WD40 goes a long way here). The brass bushings on mine were shot, but they were a whopping 80 cents at our local hardware store so I just replaced them.

Hope this helped, PM or post if there's any other help I can give you!

[capthump1]

Now I see, I have to order the cover with the button, mine is missing. The lever is there but the cable is disconnected. I guess the easiest way to reconnect it is to remove the lever, where it connects is under the gas tank. I have to remove it any way to lubricate the bushings. Then I'll see about adjusting the carb end of the cable.

[capthump1]

Well the cable connector on the lever end is missing the retaining clip, bushings and spring look good. The dust cap looks ok it was just missing 2 screws, the end button is there and looks fine. I removed the oil tank and associated hardware, plugged off the tubing to the intake, but can't get the bottom screw out of the oil pump. Yhe last owner stripped the phillips head out. Got to take a trip to the local hardware store for a clip and some screws. And on my next visit here I'll bring my vice grips and a chiesel just in case. While I'm on here.... the grabby clutch is the primary clutch, have to rev the engine a bit before it starts to close, maybe it will free up with use, hate to have to pull it looks it would be a SOB to do.

[cart newbee]

Had same problem with my oil pump on a 83' marathon. Had to drill heads off both screws to get it off. They sell a tool to remove the drive clutch, but it seems pricey to me. I removed my cluth with a 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolt. I removed the bolt in the end of the clutch, inserted a 3 or 4 inch bolt into the hole, then used the 3/4" bolt and a impact gun to pull the cluth off. Cost $1.58 with tax. My engine was out of the cart. dont know if you can get to it with the engine in? Good luck. Hope this helps if you do have to remove the clutch.