G16 won't fire up

[junior1954]

It's possible the lifter is seized in the lifter bore in the "up" or "open" position and the valve made contact with the top of the piston. Some engines are "interferance" engines-if the valve is in the open position at TDC, it will hit the top of the piston-if the only thing damaged is the pushrod, you got off cheap! Once you get the engine apart, you may be able to clean out the lifter bores with a small brake cylinder hone-make sure you lubricate the bore with oil as you hone it and wipe it out with a clean cloth periodically to keep the gunk/rust you're going to be removing from scoring the lifter bore. Sounds like the previous owner(s) didn't change the oil often enough or it may be rust from sitting without a carb. or muffler. I'm sure you'll be cleaning more than the lifter bores since you'll have it apart. Wouldn't be a bad idea to plasti-guage (measure) the main and rod bearings and check them for scoring/wear as long as you're going that far.

[craig tn]

if your going in go ahead and do a rebuild.

[AGrayson84]

Thanks again fellas! So what do you think it will take to get the lifter out of the bore? Just try to tap it out with a drift or something once I get the cam out?

There was definitely a little mark on the piston where the intake valve hit, but the intake valve itself doesn't have a mark. I'll pull out the valve and make sure the stem is still straight, but it looked to seat perfectly in the valve seat.

I guess I'll see what it's going to cost to repair it if I can get the lifter out and see if thinks even look repairable. Otherwise I might be diving into an engine swap much sooner than I originally planned.

[junior1954]

Soak the crap out of the lifter/lifter bore with P.B. Blaster Penetrating Catalyst and let it sit overnight (or longer). Try to drive the lifter out with a punch. If that does't work, clean the block of oil and gas with something like brake clean to get anything flammable off of the block and then heat the lifter and lifter bore with a MAPP gas torch, again using a punch and hammer to drive the lifter out. You heat it and beat it enough, it'll come out.

That valve may look (and be) straight, but get some lapping compound and a lapping suction cup and lap both valves. If they're not to bad, you can get a good seal for cheap, but take your time (and it WILL take time). You'll have a poor man's valve grind. If you can't see/feel a smooth seal around both valves and seats you may have a bent valve or be in need of professional machining of the valves and seats and may have to buy a new valve or two. If the valves don't feel too sloppy in the guides, put new valve guide seals on (the little rubber cups that fit around the top of the valve stem under the spring at the top of the guide). If there is more than slight play in the guides, you may need to have new guides pressed in. This stuff costs more time than money and you'll know what you've got inside that motor. A used motor is an unknown quantity.

[LURCH]

I wouldn't spend any time or money on it if you are still talking about doing the whole 4X4 ATV setup. Take your money and put it there and sell all the stock stuff for parts that way you will have some extra money. Just my 2 cents!!!!!!1