G22E Won’t Move

[Justin8207]

I’m new to the golf cart world. I bought a 2007 G22E from Craigslist that was advertised as needing batteries. I’m an mechanical engineer by trade, so I figured it would be no problem. I was wrong... I installed the batteries in series per the manual specifications and when powered up the solenoid clicks on and then off. So here is a list of checks I’ve done so far to no avail. Any advice would be much appreciated.

1. Checked new battery voltage. 49.9v total.

2. Checked solenoid when powered up. When it clicks on briefly I get .3 ohms, 49.9v across terminals. Jumped negative signal wire to ensure solenoid worked on command.

3. Checked for continuity between controller wire harness and solenoid signal terminals. It checked out.

4. Checked ignition switch, forward/reverse switch, tow switch, stop switch, and throttle sensor. All were at proper voltage/resistance.

5. Checked motor. It’s a 2015 regen from advanced motors and drives. I looked up how to bypass the controller and test using the batteries. It wouldn’t turn using 8v. Hooked it to 24v and got the motor turning. I watched it for a minute or so and it started to smoke a little. The guy I bought it from said it have been sitting for 2 years. I took the motor out and looked for anything suspicious or burned. Everything looked to be in great shape, I’m not sure what cause the smoke. Maybe dust?

So I’m leaning towards the fact that it may need a new controller. It looks like it’s not pushing signal to the solenoid, or accepting signal from the stop/throttle switch. But I’m no expert, to be honest I’m lost as to what to do next and I don’t want to drop $450 on a controller if that’s not the problem. If anyone needs more info or pics I’m willing to do whatever it take to get this thing going! Thanks in advance.

[trentofdestiny]

There's a throttle switch and throttle potentiometer. Test them both. Also 49.9 isn't fully charged.


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[trentofdestiny]

Fully charged should be 50.4 or higher if they just came off the charger

[Justin8207]

Thanks for the reply!

Is the throttle switch the one activated when the pedal is not pressed in? If so, I tested that one for continuity. While pressed in and released and it seemed to operate normally. I also tested the round shaped sensor that looks to be some sort of throttle position sensor. I was getting about 150 resistance with pedal not pressed and about 5000 when pedal was fully pressed in.

Also, I just plugged in the charger to get a full charge. I just assumed anything over 48v was full. Rookie move on my part.

A couple other odd findings; with the back end jacked up off the ground I spun the wheels and the solenoid kicked on for a few seconds and then off. I’m not sure why, but I was able to repeat it consistently. I also checked the resistance between A1 and A2 on the motor and it was in the 40’s. I read it shouldn’t be over 1.5. Resistance between F1 and F2 was .5. I also check for continuity from each motor terminal to the motor body, and that checked out.

[LukeL]

Originally Posted by trentofdestiny

Fully charged should be 50.4 or higher if they just came off the charger

50.9 after resting.

[Justin8207]

They are brand new batteries, but i charged them over night and they were at 51.9v this morning.

I read a post that said the G22 controller goes through a self diagnostic process when reset by checking the solenoid (which i hear clicking on and off when reset), and the motor. With my resistance being around 44 between A1 and A2, and the smoke coming from the motor when testing, I think the problem may lie there. I'm going to tear it down and check the wires and brushes more thoroughly when i get home this evening. Is there a walk through or some type breakdown info on golf cart motors that I can gain knowledge from to help me in this adventure?

[Justin8207]

Update:

I took the motor apart and cleaned the armature. It was very dirty. Once I reassembled it I was getting 0.4 ohms. Mounted the motor and tested it and it worked great. No smoke or stutter at all. I then replaced the solenoid and reconnected all the cables. No dice. It still wouldn’t start.

I downloaded the wiring schematics and decided to test all the switches at the plug instead of at the switch. When I got to the accelerator I didn’t have resistance or continuity to the black wire. So I tested it again at the switch and it worked. Moved back to a connector, and was still getting good signal. So I tested from the connector to the main plug and that where the continuity was broke. Followed the wire and found where someone had cut it and then just taped it together and the wires had separated. Rewired that correctly and turned it on and success! It works perfectly now.

[trentofdestiny]

Was that the accelerator switch or pot?


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[Justin8207]

The pot I believe. The sensor that detects the pedals location. It has 3 wires.

[trentofdestiny]

Originally Posted by Justin8207

The pos I believe. The sensor that detects the pedals location. It has 3 wires.

Okay. Glad you got it fixed


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