1998 club car ds wont move regen2 - troubleshoot help

[johnnyscart]

Hi,
I recently had my cart die (1998 club car ds). The shop told me the motor and controller were fine and I needed a new obc. Yesterday I tried to bypass the obc by jumping white and blue wires. This gave me voltage on the solenoids, however when I turn on cart, have in run, press the gas nothing happens. I have determined that i have no (-) on the solenoid. I did jumper to (-) and the solenoid did engage, but still no movement of the cart. Looking for ideas to troubleshoot further. Thanks in advance.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Not sure why they would say that the OBC is preventing it from running. It will prevent it from charging.... And you bypass the OBC by running a jumper from the back side of the charge receptacle (where the black 10g wire is that goes into the harness) and run it directly to the Main Pack Negative. Also take the grey sense wire coming off the same receptacle and land it to the same place. This will allow the charger to turn on "if" the OBC has failed. Note- This is only to test and not to make normal operation.

And the lockout circuit bypassed for testing by disconnecting the 6-pin connector from the OBC and install a jumper or metal paper clip between the white wire and the blue wire on the cart's harness side connector. (Insulate it if you are going to leave it that way or look at the stickys and there are directions for cutting off the other side and making a jumper plug.)

And if you did not have the low (Neg) at the solenoid via the blue/white wire, then when you jumped that small post to the Main Neg at the pack or B- controller and it closed in (clicked) but would not run, then either your solenoid is bad internally or the controller is bad. You need to check the voltage on the 2 big post before and after solenoid closure to insure it is occurring.

Before assuming any of this, you need to make sure you tested everything correctly or the conclusion will be false...

[johnnyscart]

So I reconnected the obc and it seems to be working and providing voltage to the blue wire and to the cart. The solenoid will only engage when blue/white is connected to (-). There is 48 volt on yellow coming off the solenoid once engaged. Can the controller be opened. I am leaning towards that being the problem. Any other ideas?

[NoleFan4Ever]

If the solenoid is only engaging (closing in) because you are having to manually supply the Neg (which the controller should have supplied) and then after it closes you are not getting anything from the controller, then it has definitely failed you. And on a Regen 2 cart, you have honestly gotten more life out that controller than many have.... They take special equipment and skills to work on so its not repairable by the normal end user.

Alltrax was supposed to have released there XCT model for the Regen 2 cart that is plug & play. This would be your best alternative.

David Hicks at Revolution Golf Cars was working with them on it.
Phone: 706-431-3917 Email: info@revolutiongolfcars.com

[johnnyscart]

The only other thing to note is once the solenoid has engaged (since I jumped it) the motor gets hot and I thought I saw some smoke. I tested motor with continuity only. Just want to make sure everything is ruled out before replacing controller.

[NoleFan4Ever]

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 or 24 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 or 24 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by johnnyscart

The only other thing to note is once the solenoid has engaged (since I jumped it) the motor gets hot and I thought I saw some smoke.

Smoke is not good but some arcing can be expected.
Test it like Nole states, should give us a clue.
May have to open it up and inspect it.

[johnnyscart]

All tested fine, my resistance is slightly higher f1 to f2. 5ohms. Still test with voltage?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Oh yes...

[johnnyscart]

Assuming I get the motor moving is there anything else I should check for beside wheel rotation?