89 Marathon dies when warm, wont start

[D2Gags]

I've searched the forums but nobody else seems to have the same problem.
My Marathon with the 3pg starts fine when choked, might take a few seconds then it runs ok until it a couple minutes later its either flat out dies when in have it to the floor or if i have to stop and restart it wont start again. After this happens it wont start until the engine cools down a few hours later. My cousins a mechanic and told me to change the oil seal behind the clutch, he says 2 strokes are notorious for this, just wondering if anybody else has had this problem. I have a new fuel pump, filters, and all new fuel lines and clean carb just to rule those out. Thanks

[Miketucky350]

Yes indeed the crank seals will cause this. Any gasket on the engine or the line to the fuel pump is bad they will not run or run right. As our 2 strokers use crankcase pressure to operate the fuel pump. So if there is a leak, its a big problem. My 1990 3pg daily driven marathon just started this last week. Run great cold then it would not restart after stopping. I rebuilt motor a few years ago. After winter I did a tune up of new carb/fuel pump/ect. Started the season great. The ole 3pg running like a beast. Then the call at work saying the cart is broke down at the fairgrounds. The base gasket started leaking. I got it going after work then ordered new gaskets/bearings/rings. Now ready to prepare the marathon for more years of use. Hope this helps

[D2Gags]

Yes it does thanks for the input!

[Sean5545]

Miketucky is probably right but since I just had a similar issue yesterday right after my rebuild I figured I'd add my two cents, since I was running a brake in tank of gas the plug kept fouling after about 2 minutes of run time, a hotter plug until I'm broken in fixed this. I also want to say if you do change your crank seals make sure to use loctite retaining compound on them (thanks to the guys on this site for that little tidbit lol) .....I put mine back in 3 times until my errors we corrected by fellow members

[D2Gags]

So you used lock tite on the seal itself? I've never heard of using it on something without threads, or is there a nut that holds it in. I'm still waiting on my clutch puller to come in so I can change it.

[D2Gags]

So you used lock tite on the seal itself? I've never heard of using it on something without threads, or is there a nut that holds it in. I'm still waiting on my clutch puller to come in so I can change it.

[racin161]

Put loctite on the outer metal area of the seal and a bit in the bore. Lube the rubber area with 2 cycle oil then install. After installing stake the outer area of the seal area (CASE) with a center punch or chisel 3 places is good !!! hope this clears up your questions.

LOU

[Sean5545]

Loctite retaining compound (green) not thread locker ( thread locker may work but I've never actually tried it so I can't say for sure )

[D2Gags]

Thanks guys, just wondering RACIN161 what do you mean by staking the area? Also does anybody have any tricks for getting this clutch off? I have the puller, my electric impact, PB Blaster and it wont budge, impact got so hot I cant even touch it. I'm stuck if I cant even get the clutch off.

[Sean5545]

I put pressure on mine with a cross arm puller and m6-1.00 by 60 mm bolts using only a wrench....I then tapped it with a hammer for a minute around the outside of the clutch and she popped