Toro Workman model 07279 serial 313000111

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by kenhouser

has anyone ever pressed the center out of a driven clutch.

Last time i looked at pressing the centre out, the whole sheave exploded. It appears that the sheave (if aluminum) is cast around splines on the centre!

You have two dead ones, so may be worth a shot LOL.

With the idea off swapping out the rear end, You will have to find one that either has exactly the same setup for the axles and swap axles and tubes etc, or find a whole rear end that is wide enough, as the Toro rear end is way wider than a cart one. If the input shaft on the rear end is not worn, maybe sleeve it and put a key slot in it and then put a sleeve and key slot in the clutch, that will hold everything together and no need to worry about splines stripping again.

The clutches have always been an issue with these Toro's, as once they are in need of replacement, the cost is way out there to be viable. In the UK, there are loads of these machines and the earlier 2110 models abandoned, due to clutch failure.

[CP241]

a sleeve and a key is a great idea!

find a sleeve that's snug in the clutch, and fits over the splines. Then drill a bunch of holes in it, plug weld the sleeve along it and weld the ends to the spline, and cut in a keyway. You'd just have to cut the keyway in the clutch and that would probably work fine. Be a lot less work than trying to press in a splined sleeve to the clutch.

It could also open up options for other clutches fitting as well.

[kenhouser]

Yea CartMaster the whole sheave blowing up is what i am expecting

don't think i am going to find a spline coupler to fit the input shaft on the toro.


one question so is there any info on what a standard shaft size is i assume a 1/4 inch key way? this i could have options on other clutches

so using you two genius (CP241, CartMaster) ideas

what do you think of these two devices
weld this to the trans axle input shaft
https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Pulley...BN1TNNC32WCWKM

bore the clutch out to fit this (this maybe tricky)
press it in the clutch
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/1...EaApfmEALw_wcB

then at least i can throw the whole trans axle away with the clutch

[CP241]

I would think that adding/welding whatever onto the trans input shaft would be easy. Working with the clutch would be a lot more difficult, so I would do as little as possible with that part. I'd try and find a sleeve that fits snug and nice in the clutch. Then, maybe use a dremel or something, and cut the slot for the key to fit in the clutch. The longer the slot, the stronger it will be since it isn't going to press on like a tapered or splined shaft. Primary clutches are frequently run off a keyway, but I don't know if the same holds true for the secondary clutches. Seems like they would have a lot more torque than a primary would, but that's just a guess.

Then again, I was joking before, but... if you're going to weld/ruin the input shaft anyway, maybe just make it easy on yourself and just weld the clutch on and call it a day. If the clutch ever goes bad it may be a bit of a science project lol.

I would imagine the input shaft should be available separately. Worst case, you could always replace the input shaft and buy the right clutch :)

[kenhouser]

i could cut a key way in the shaft with a dremel or side grinder.
is is only 3/4 to 7/8 inch in diameter and is hollow for the bolt go in
so i would have to be very careful not to go to deep.( i have this problem a lot)

but in the clutch? not sure how?
it would need to be broached.

welding aluminum(clutch) to steel(shaft) to each other is impossible

[CP241]

The clutch sheaves may be aluminum, but the center "no longer splined" portion should be steel. CAn't imagine they would make the splined part out of aluminum. And if they did, then we know why all the splines are stripped lol

[kenhouser]

very true! i do believe that the splines in the clutch are steel but there is only about 3/4 inch splines in the clutch which is why i think they strip so easy.

but they are semi in the middle of the clutch and can't reach them with any welding device

[CP241]

Gotcha. Was hard to tell by the pics, I would have expected the splines to come all the way to the ends. sounds like a terrible design just asking for failure.

JB Weld? lol (just kidding). I'm out of ideas, at least for anything that would hold up long term. A splined shaft may be the best option if you can cut a keyway into the current clutch. I don't know that you'd be able to press a sleeve in and have it hold up to torque.

Since you have 2 of them, may be worth experimenting on one of them just to see if you can find something that will be strong enough and work. But as much as it hurts I'd probably just pony up the cash for a new clutch. You're not into these things much cash so you'd still end up way ahead of the game.

[CP241]

I was just looking on google, just searched "driven clutch" and looked at images. Among snowmobiles, ATV's, golf carts, etc. there seems to be a pretty big mix of 3 types... Splined, Tapered, and keyed. Looks like club car uses a keyway, ezgo seems to be splined. at 1200 lbs, that's about the same as my gator in weight, quite a bit heavier than a standard golf cart. but if you can weld on a collar and a keyway, and cut a keyway into the existing clutch it might just work!

[CP241]

Another shot in the dark... Can you use some calipers and measure the input shaft on your rear end? And count the splines? I've got a secondary clutch floating around from a Kawasaki Prairie I forgot about that's splined. If it fits, you can have it for whatever shipping costs. IT worked fine, I just parted it out because it was too jacked up to rebuild and cost of repairs would have exceeded what I could have sold it for.