G9A Governor Bypass, still no top speed increase

[jwhranger]

Thanks for all the replies. I will jack it up this evening and get back to you. For the governor I will attach pics, but first things first I will make sure the clutches are doing what they should. Very useful information and I appreciate all of your help.

[sho305]

Another G9 I run did 27mph gps with 22s and only the governor all the way in, but it has a 16hp clone in it now and goes a little faster but mostly gets there way faster.

[jwhranger]

Ok, jacked up rear wheels and put in gear and floored it. Clutches start to act like in the video put the belt on the clutch connected to the engine (primary?) does not get close to the top of the clutch, or does not move all the way up the clutch. Sorry for the bad explanations, hopefully you know what I mean. Same thing happens for the secondary clutch on the axle, it starts to go down, but then only makes it a half inch to an inch, not the full range of motion like in the video. Engine smokes some, but has 150 + psi and can pull me up anything I point it towards, or happily pull the trailer around the yard and move my boat around the yard as well. I am going to see if I can assess the tension cable. Thanks very much!

[sho305]

Its likely a broken weight in the primary (drive/engine). Look at the ramps on the back of the secondary and if the ramps are smooth its likely ok. Take the cover off the primary if it has tight screws use an impact the type for motorcycles they are cheap, you hit them with a hammer. Pull the belt up hard to get it inside the secondary, then roll it off the primary. Move the clutch outer sheave in/out by hand and look at the weights/links, something is not working right. Check the belt side and see if its dished in from the belt compared to the other steel side. Look at TNT carts site they show a parts breakdown, there is three links and weights, pins they ride on, thats about it. Impact the center bolt out, use a propane torch on the set screws they come right out when the loctite is heated don't strip them. Or you can buy a replacement clutch at CPP or others but it costs more.

[jwhranger]

Investigating tensioner, there was a small threaded bolt underneath the starter generator, not sure if that is the tensioner?

[jwhranger]

Sounds good Sho, I'll take the clutch apart. Thanks for all the help, will post updates.

[sho305]

There is a stud for the tensioner with two nuts on it, the cable comes out of it and goes to the other side with a lug on it that hooks in. They are not that much at yami dealers, or you can fab something up. The cable transmits less vibration to the frame, the engine is on four rubber mounts. That will hurt your hill climbing and towing if its trashed.

This is a clone engine, but right at the bottom of the black PVC pipe you can see the cable if you look close. It is maybe just smaller than 1/8" cable. Its right above that bolt under the generator, that is a motor mount under there. Actually that bracket broke there and we welded it up. Are you digging the snazzy $10 cavalier airbox? LOL I piped it to the front of the cart for fresh air with 2" pvc under the floor.

[jwhranger]

Thats not what I was looking at under the cart, but took off clutch cover and found a broken arm, will attach pics. Whats the cheapest I can get back on the road? Look for used? My experience has been to replace with new parts, and I plan on keeping the cart until the motor blows, then replacing with a clone possibly.

[jwhranger]

I wondered where the airbox came from, nice set up, I bet that motor runs good with all that fresh air.

[sho305]

You might find used sometimes stuff is on ebay too or here. I rebuilt it with new sheave, so I had to take the weights and all off and put on the new sheave but they were not broken. I lube them with chain lube I use superlube, then clean off any extra. Use grease in the center bushing on the zerk there, with the cover off pump it full and clean it off, cover on only one pump.