97 Club car wont go after shorting A1 with B-

[sunoco]

No prob. Always best to check and check then check again when re wiring.

[golfjet52]

Originally Posted by sunoco

No prob. Always best to check and check then check again when re wiring.

Got that right.

Since the the cart is charging now, is it safe to say the OBC is good?

[golfjet52]

Finally got a chance to test the motor. I removed it from the cart and installed it on my 36v CC, it works fine.

(on a side note it picked up speed, went fron 14 to 20mph)

But anyway, since the OBC is letting the batteries charge can I call it good?

If so process of elimination proves the controller has passed away (or should I say "been killed)

[mrgolf]

I am no cart guru, but I did learn the hard way about, put cart in tow,disconnect the neg main, disconnect the pos main, make sure they cannot make contact. Then you can work on the wiring. I had a golf cart " guru" pull my motor shortly after I bought the cart to replace some screws. He blew my controller then said it must have been bad when I took the cart to him. He is an old friend, so I bought a new controller. I know the controller was good when I took it to him. I had just played golf all day an thought I was going to put a speed magnet in. Turns out I had the wrong motor. When I took the screws out I felt the bearing retainer drop. I put the cart in tow and pushed it on my trailer. Then pushed it off at his shop. I later found that one of his helpers had put it in run to drive it into there shop. He claimed it was just time for the controller to go out. Seems that happens a lot when they work on motors. I just figure it was stupid tax for me taking the darn screws out. I never ever fool around the motor or batteries with tow and disconnect.

[golfjet52]

Ok, problem solved......Thanks to Scottyb, he walked me thru the trouble shooting and found the issue.

Turned out to be a bad micro switch located inside the v glide. This switch must have failed when I caused the spark. I used an old micro removed from the old F&R switch.

I had a complete upgrade planned and in the works anyway, so a new controller was happening either way.

I hooked the old controller back up to see if it fried and its fine, works great.

So new F&R switch, 2ga cables, 400/1000a Solenoid & 700a controller. I believe if I didn't have a winch/bumper on the front end it would do a wheelie

Hopefully i'll recoup some money from the old motor & controller.