2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

[BlueDubPirate]

I recently purchased a 2008 Carryall that had seen better days. It was used by maintenance in an apartment complex so it was free of the corrosion that comes from working a golf course. I intend to build something to serve dual purposes, 1) to help with projects on my property and 2) something for the Ms. and me to use around town. It will need to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing (or she won't use it, much less ride in it). So off we go. I intend to use this thread to document my progress and probably ask a TON of questions.

The main obvious issues with my cart are the following:

1) The original cargo box was replaced with a flatbed from a 700. Its way too long for the cart. That's gotta go along with the toolbox. I'd like to replace it with a smaller stake-side bed. Looking around now for the parts/kit.

2) Someone replaced the original 10" steelies with 8" wheels resulting in lost speed and a goofy look. Just replaced those today (see pictures below).

3) Suspension and undercarriage: The rear suspension sags, likely due to years of hauling stuff around. Will start with new springs and rear shocks. Those are on order. She'll get a full cleaning on the underside and engine bay.

4) Drive Train: The Kawasaki FE350 motor still seems to run strong, but I want more power, smoother power. Abandoned the rebuild option and ordered a B&S 23hp V-twin swap and new axle gears due to the clockwise/counter-clockwise issue.

5) Exterior: It needs a full cosmetic restoration and all the parts needed to make it street legal (new light kit, LED Bar lights front and back, new windshield, etc). I will keep the front cowl, but repaint it in black. All of the aluminum panels need to be brightened up and the roof will be replaced. Trailer hitch receivers will be mounted front and back and a winch will be added that can be mounted on the hitches (so I can use it in the rear or the front).

6) Interior: New seats, floor, dash, gauges, steering wheel, etc. Last thing I may do is add a stereo system.

I'll keep this updated for anyone interested in following or offering sage advice!

[BlueDubPirate]

New wheels. Went from 18.5x8.5x8 to 22x11x10. The 10" wheels let me stuff meatier tires to improve the ride. They fit in spite of the saggy rear end. Aesthetically, its a big change. I think I picked up a few MPH at top end with the larger tires.

[TennesseePete]

Originally Posted by BlueDubPirate

New wheels. Went from 18.5x8.5x8 to 22x11x10. The 10" wheels let me stuff meatier tires to improve the ride. They fit in spite of the saggy rear end. Aesthetically, its a big change. I think I picked up a few MPH at top end with the larger tires.

Those tires and rims just slip right on a stock ride? That's a good look. Was thinking about the additional clearance after i couldnt get the jack out from below the rear diff after i Dropped it with the new hd springs

[BlueDubPirate]

Originally Posted by TennesseePete

Those tires and rims just slip right on a stock ride? That's a good look. Was thinking about the additional clearance after i couldnt get the jack out from below the rear diff after i Dropped it with the new hd springs

Yes, the front had plenty of clearance for the new wheels and tires. The rear did not, but that was fixed when I put on the new springs and shocks. I think the old springs were just worn out from use. Now, its got a great stance, sits just a tad higher in the rear.

I also added 1.5" wheel spacers (after that picture above in your post was taken). The stock wheel width is too narrow and the additional three inches of width is perfect. The rear tires are now sitting just inside the rear fenders. The front will sit outside of the body by about 2" but I will add front fenders to cover them. See the picture below with the spacers (if you compare the rear tires from the pic above and the one below, you'll see how they now fill the fender well). The extra width will also help with lateral stability. The narrow wheel-base makes these things tip to easily.

[BlueDubPirate]

The new motor's oil drain plug did not sit over the access hole in the engine pan. I searched for a solution that would save me from having to cut the pan and found this little device. Its essentially a petcock valve that will 1) make oil changes much easier and 2) extends the oil drain the exact 2" needed to get it over the access hole in the engine pan. I love it when things come together.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by BlueDubPirate

The new motor's oil drain plug did not sit over the access hole in the engine pan. I searched for a solution that would save me from having to cut the pan and found this little device. Its essentially a petcock valve that will 1) make oil changes much easier and 2) extends the oil drain the exact 2" needed to get it over the access hole in the engine pan. I love it when things come together.

As long as its protected so you don't dump your oil and end up tying up your engine

but that does make oil changes quick and easy!

[TennesseePete]

Originally Posted by BlueDubPirate

Yes, the front had plenty of clearance for the new wheels and tires. The rear did not, but that was fixed when I put on the new springs and shocks. I think the old springs were just worn out from use. Now, its got a great stance, sits just a tad higher in the rear.

I also added 1.5" wheel spacers (after that picture above in your post was taken). The stock wheel width is too narrow and the additional three inches of width is perfect. The rear tires are now sitting just inside the rear fenders. The front will sit outside of the body by about 2" but I will add front fenders to cover them. See the picture below with the spacers (if you compare the rear tires from the pic above and the one below, you'll see how they now fill the fender well). The extra width will also help with lateral stability. The narrow wheel-base makes these things tip to easily.

I see that. Nice stance. I noticed the rear lifted an inch after the hd spring set up was installed. Barely moves too when i stand on it. This may work, even if i have to cut some of the fender away, i dont care.

Where did the spacers come from?

Nice petcock...

[BlueDubPirate]

Originally Posted by TennesseePete

Where did the spacers come from?

Ebay. Just search on wheel spacers for a club car DS.



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[swb713]

Originally Posted by BlueDubPirate

New wheels. Went from 18.5x8.5x8 to 22x11x10. The 10" wheels let me stuff meatier tires to improve the ride. They fit in spite of the saggy rear end. Aesthetically, its a big change. I think I picked up a few MPH at top end with the larger tires.

When you put your new wheels and tires on, you did not mention a lift kit. were you able to stuff these in with out the lift kit? And if so, do you have any problem with tire rub? And do you or anyone else know if there is a difference in the suspension between a gasser and a 48v Electric model?

I have a 2002 Carryall and looking at your post makes me want to do the same side wheels and tires, but not really wanting a lift kit. My springs and shocks are in good shape, both front and back.

Following your build and liking what I've seen so far.

[BlueDubPirate]

Originally Posted by swb713

When you put your new wheels and tires on, you did not mention a lift kit. were you able to stuff these in with out the lift kit? And if so, do you have any problem with tire rub? And do you or anyone else know if there is a difference in the suspension between a gasser and a 48v Electric model?

I have a 2002 Carryall and looking at your post makes me want to do the same side wheels and tires, but not really wanting a lift kit. My springs and shocks are in good shape, both front and back.

Following your build and liking what I've seen so far.

I did not want to do a lift kit. These carts are already lifted. I got the largest wheels and tires possible. I did get some rub on the frame rails and after notching off the ends with a cutoff wheel, I’ve had no issues.