2015 PTV EFI--aka Yamaha Concierge---How/where to ground electrical components?

[frankthetank]

Any harm in putting a fused in-line 4 gauge amp distribution power block directly on top of the battery?

Running out of space and it says keep within 12” of power supply.

I was going to use heavy duty double sided gorilla tape so it wouldn’t go anywhere.

Thoughts???

[sho305]

Long as it can't short out sure, though the fumes from the battery may not be that good for it if you are actually on top of the battery. In my car the fuse is a couple inches from the positive post near side of battery, its been fine for many years now, with 5ga cable running about 1kw of class D amps. Its a amp wire kit, then the current two amps in back run off a distro block. It came with a 100A and I put a 60 or something in it eventually, the sub amp is only 500 and even playing bass music it had no issue....though I don't play that much bass in normal use it shakes the car (pair of 15s).

[frankthetank]

Originally Posted by sho305

Long as it can't short out sure, though the fumes from the battery may not be that good for it if you are actually on top of the battery. In my car the fuse is a couple inches from the positive post near side of battery, its been fine for many years now, with 5ga cable running about 1kw of class D amps. Its a amp wire kit, then the current two amps in back run off a distro block. It came with a 100A and I put a 60 or something in it eventually, the sub amp is only 500 and even playing bass music it had no issue....though I don't play that much bass in normal use it shakes the car (pair of 15s).

I think I can get both of them onto the board holding the larger amp and piggy it over to it. just wanted it to be a little cleaner looking.

I just want it a little easier to access everything(if I need to). Our other cart I kinda just shoved everything in. Learn from your mistakes haha

Been a long time comin on this thing.... had another spinal fusion so the past 2 years haven't really touched it. Trying to pick up where I left off......fuzzy on the memory portion a bit. shoulda written down some of it.

Think I am just going to wire the amps direct to battery and then the other 10 gang fuse block and ground block have set to add some lights and stuff as I progress.

Are there any rules of thumb for distance of the grounding wire back to the battery?
But I am sure I will hit you up again.
Thanks

[Rooster59]

Originally Posted by frankthetank

Morning all---been on hiatus the past 6 months due to back surgery. Tryin to get back into the swing of things.

I am reading mixed reviews on where to run ground wires for components.

Coming into the Negative- Terminal is the Big Gauge Black wire....there is also a smaller black wire that Y-Splits off very close to the negative terminal and is Grounded to the frame.

Where should I ground components such as stereo, amplifier, and lighting etc? Directly to the Negative Post or to the Frame?

So far I have the following components to connect:

1)I have multiple led lights and a few fog/offroad lights.

2)One 400 watt amplifier to power 4 Marine speakers.

3) One 50 watt amplifier to power a voice changer and 2 small speakers (for the kiddos).

4) A have a spare mono amplifier (1000 watts I believe) and 2 subwoofers from an old car that I may use. Not sure if I can fit it yet.

What EFFECTs if any would running all these components on the CART be?

I am not sure what would be too much to hook up to the cart?

But basically I need toFIRST start with where to ground it properly and maybe an explanation as to why ground it to the negative battery terminal vs. the frame or vice versa so I can better grasp things.

As always an helpful input is appreciated:-)

For 12 volt systems you can calculate amps by dividing watts by volts. 12 watts equals 1 amp. 1000 watts equals 83.33 amps.

[sho305]

You can calculate wire size here http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm for amplifiers. That assumes max output and you can pick class AB or D. If you plan to run them at max output of course. The negative cable should be short as possible and at least as large or larger. Again you don't really have to go that big unless you plan to max the amps out, and non-sub amps will not need that much power for music. I've run a clamp on meter on my amps and even with bass music I never play I was only getting close to the amps listed there. I think I would need a line driver to get max output from my alpine amp on subs, but my IB 15s are moving plenty enough, the car roof is vibrating, I just don't play it that loud on music anyway so I don't care. When you use the amps listed you will get enough voltage drop to lower output. Also many amps now are regulated so it matters a little less. I would never use a non class D on subs in a cart due to lack of power available, as a rule in a cart/boat/anything that is not running a big alternator all the time you minimize current draw as much as you can. On high side it will matter less, but some for midbass, and I run all class D in my car now so it does not dim my lights unless I really pound it hard and even then its not that bad, with a little 125A alt. Most cars they figure a 15' run of wire, so for much less distance you can drop to a smaller wire even. The one calculator on there you can enter distance too.

My car runs 1kw on a 5 ga, its enough for class D on subs and whatever on highs. It may not be enough for class AB on subs at max power that is about 50% efficient and class D 80%. I did run a 800W rms sub amp class D it was ok, with my 125x4 on highs.

[frankthetank]

Got my Light Bar installed. Pretty sure its normal but when you flip the rocker to power it on you can hear a slight tick/click sound coming from the relay (under the middle body).

It's barely loud enough to hear and is probably amplified by the garage and garage floor.

But I have never messed with a relay before.

Is this common for when the circuit closes?

[BLACK DEATH]

I ran my light bar back to the battery ground.
My relay clicks also

[frankthetank]

Originally Posted by BLACK DEATH

I ran my light bar back to the battery ground.
My relay clicks also

Thanks. I figured it was fine. Plus figured cars did it too just can’t hear those cause of being enclosed. Appreciate it:-)

[sho305]

Yeah that is normal for relay to click, its just a switch run by electric. Basically you can ground the frame and then ground accessories to the frame if you want. Just make sure your battery ground to frame is very good, because if it comes loose you would have problems! I would use the battery but you get lights and stuff that are far away it can be a lot nicer to use the frame. For a stereo amp you mount under the seat the battery is close you might as well use battery ground. A ground block can also work great.