Which is easiest, Axle and engine pan, or rear body?

[lockman1]

Here we go...

I'm getting ready to get my drive, and driven clutches machined by Tom @ CPP...

Is it easier to remove the transaxle/engine pan to do this...
(Intake tube, brake, shifter and throttle cables, ect.)

Or, to remove the top, rear seat, rear body, etc. to access the clutches???

To me... the body may be easiest... but with limited room in my garage,
I'm not sure where I'm going to put everything, while waiting to reinstall my clutches...

There is another thing... since putting on my Jakes 3" spindle lift,
my brake cables are VERY tight...(almost rubbing on my drive clutch... 4 wire ties holding it back!)

My CC dealer (Great guy...) is looking into cable extentions,
or, custom cables that'll work for me. (and others with lifts that may have the same problem!)
So, the engine pan removal might help with that!

Any, and all input will be greatly appreciated!

[scottyb]

I am very pleased with the machined clutch from Tom... he machined it so it would close more too for lower gears Plus the spring and the 28 degrees. It was like day and night for my workhorse but, Jon said there must have been something wrong with mine for it to be such a change? Anyway, hope you are as happy. My 2000 Carryall was accessable by removing the wheel and messing around with the floor jack until I either got above or below the shackles...you have alot of options. What exactly do you bump? the frame? the shackle?

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by scottyb

What exactly do you bump? the frame? the shackle?

Ummm... bump what?

The only thing that I think your talking about is my brake cable...
It's extremely tight, and way too close to the drive clutch...
Is that what your talking about?

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I am very pleased with the machined clutch from Tom... he machined it so it would close more too for lower gears Plus the spring and the 28 degrees. It was like day and night for my workhorse but, Jon said there must have been something wrong with mine for it to be such a change? Anyway, hope you are as happy. My 2000 Carryall was accessable by removing the wheel and messing around with the floor jack until I either got above or below the shackles...you have alot of options. What exactly do you bump? the frame? the shackle?

I just re-read this...

Boy... don't I feel like a dumb A$$... (thinking I have to tear it all apart)
I guess I'm ready to heat up the garage, and get to work!
Thanks Scotty!

[scottyb]

Looks like you might hit the shackles ..... You need to slide it out about 3 inches before it comes off, if I remember right?

[4vertical]

i was able to remopve mine from my lifted 6 inch cart and my stocker without doing anything special. on one of them I had to take off the front nut on the leaf spring and slightly back out the bolt to have clearance( I think that was the stock cart) you will figure out what it will hit when you do it.

I also found it easier to go from outside the cart(if it lines up for you) rather than try to work between the frame and the motor.

there was plenty of room for the driven to be pulled out.

-Aaron

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by 4vertical

i was able to remopve mine from my lifted 6 inch cart and my stocker without doing anything special. on one of them I had to take off the front nut on the leaf spring and slightly back out the bolt to have clearance( I think that was the stock cart) you will figure out what it will hit when you do it.

I also found it easier to go from outside the cart(if it lines up for you) rather than try to work between the frame and the motor.

there was plenty of room for the driven to be pulled out.

-Aaron

Thanks 4V...

I just picked up a puller from my CC dealer,
$15.00 more then CPP, but, he said I can return it after I'm done!
(Again... he's a good guy!)

My thought of tearing everything apart was probably do to "Cabin Fever"
and I was looking for something to do...
BUT... I was just dreading the thought of laying on cold concrete,
or handling cold metal parts, with the single digit temperatures we're having!

Hopefully, I'll get around to pulling them before this weekend!

Thanks for the "Smack in the back of the head" you guys!

Now to find brake cables, 2-3" longer without getting them custom made...

[4vertical]

i found these the other day while I was browsing http://store.bigbuggies.com/club-car...club-car-.html I have never used them so I really can't comment much more than "there they are!"

and because of you I use my key at least once a week in my truck locks....

-Aaron

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by 4vertical

i found these the other day while I was browsing http://store.bigbuggies.com/club-car...club-car-.html I have never used them so I really can't comment much more than "there they are!"

Yep... I know about those!
My CC dealer has them, and BU has them also...
Sadly... they're for Electrics only!

But, thanks for checking!

Originally Posted by 4vertical

and because of you I use my key at least once a week in my truck locks....
-Aaron

AT LAST!!! someone listened!!!
You'll NEVER have a problem if you keep it up!

[4vertical]

so how much do you need the cables extended? I never realised that there were differances in gas and electric cables. what is the differance between them? it can't be that hard to make some extensions up as I am a machinist. i would think a simple bolt on extension wound do the trick. I am surprised tom at cpp hasn't come up wioth these yet??

hmm maybe I'll have to work late tomorrow....

-Aaron