Q

[bbooth]

Hello All! I have taken my mom's old golf cart that has sat for 8-10 years and am attempting to get it going. Ran great for years and then it had a problem not shifting correctly. We took it to guy that fixed them and he replaced a solenoid. It had another issue and we took it to the gentleman but he had fallen ill and could not fix it and has since passed. From there the cart was replaced and has sat in a barn until this weekend.

I was hoping someone could help me. I have found a lot of useful info on here but am still needing a little bit more. I have a 73 DE that will not move either direction. It has all new batteries. When pressing the pedal I can hear the solenoids clicking. The further down the pedal goes you can hear different solenoids going off but the cart will not move in forward or reverse. Is there a way to test the solenoids? According to what I've read it could be the F or R solenoid. I removed everything form the F solenoid's large terminals and was able to get a good ohm reading on the two upper large terminals. The R solenoid did not give me an ohm reading with everything disconnected. But I'm not sure if I'm testing these correctly. I'm hoping to have a little time tomorrow in the garage with out the children helping me so I can make some headway. Before I go and spend the $100 on the solenoid I'd like to know its bad. Does anyone have any suggestions or tips on where to start?

Also a big thanks to rib33024 for the service manual link on another thread! I've got it saved and printed to take home! Doing a little reading on the trouble shooting mentions that the ignition switch could be bad. I did notice that when it is in the center/off position, pressing the accelerator pedal causes the relays to click. Is this normal? If the ignition switch is bad, would it cause the relays to click but the cart not to move?

[jclark138]

Welcome !

[Roy Gurley]

Welcome to the forum!

[bbooth]

Thank you for the warm welcomes!

[johnny reb]

it could be a host of things. the micro switch where the contacts move between the speeds. make sure it works and the wires are hooked up. be sure to jack up a wheel before attempting to check movement . be sure to double check wiring and terminals on relays, motor etc. i have pics of diagrams maybe the manual

[johnny reb]

oh this might help too

[bbooth]

Thanks for that info. I’m getting ready to look into it. I’ve followed the service manual with using a jumper wire between the solenoids and checking. Went through the entire flow chart and nothing worked. That led me to the motor. I’ve tested it and no terminals are grounded. S1 to s2 field is not open. Armature circuit had test light on with a-1 to a-2. I have not opened the motor to check brushes though.

[bbooth]

Johnny, following the service manual (it was a more up to date version and it seems they’ve now omitted the flow chart I was using and did not offer a replacement) you attached I could not get the micro switch to light up. Thank you, I didn’t think it would cause a problem since it’s not engaged until the pedal is all the way down so I didn’t check it. Is there a way to bypass this to verify that would be the problem part?

[bbooth]

As an update the motor does function when hooked to an external 12v power supply. I’m assuming this eliminates the motor as the culprit.

[Lochlin]

Indeed, if the motor spins on 12v then it's good.

Hmmmmm. If the microswitch was bad there should be no solenoids clicking at all. Still, you can simply jump the switch for testing purposes.

It looks like you have two diodes in your circuit. Check those to make sure that neither is burnt out.