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Electric golf carts Harley Davidson, Melex, Pargo, Taylor-Dunn and other Misc. Carts. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
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![]() My Titan utility truck died on Saturday, and I'm not having any luck getting it going.
I see that there is another request for Titan help here with no responses, so I'm not optimistic, but I don't know where else to go. It's a '90's 36v model, and the batteries and connections are fine, the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed, but nothing else happens in either forward or reverse. It gave no warning on anything being amiss, and it died suddenly and completely. And of course it did it when it was piled with garbage bags about 3 feet high ![]() I have scans of the Cushman wiring diagrams, and as everyone else here has noted, they are a cruel joke. I would like to test the motor and speed control separately to see if I can determine where the fault is, does anyone have a link to a good diagnostic procedure, or other ideas on how to proceed? I have a Fluke DMM and I'm not afraid to use it! Thanks! |
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#2 |
Gone Wild
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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![]() I'm not certain, but I believe the Titan uses a resistor speed control or a series type speed controller. Here's a link to EZGO manuals, which should be similar to the Titan. If the cart is resistor controlled, it will have large coils in a cover. If a speed controller is used, it looks similar to a brick mounted to a heatsink. These manuals give testing procedures for both systems. Before you start you can check your battery pack voltage. It should be around 38V. See what you have when you depress the pedal. If it drops considerably you may have a bad battery or connection. Then test each battery individually, both with and without the pedal depressed. Let us know what happens.
![]() http://bennettgolfcars.ca/ezgo_manuals.php |
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#3 |
Gone Wild
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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![]() Here's a chart for voltage vs state of charge and specific gravity.
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#4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
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![]() Thanks for the reply!
My Titan is for sure a speed control box unit, and I'm starting to fear that that is where my problem lies ![]() I've got 38.3V or thereabouts from the batteries, through the circuit breaker, through the solenoid, and to the hot terminal on the speed controller -- but no voltage out of it. There are three small spade-type signal connections on top of the controller, one has 6.5V on it all the time (unswitched), the other two come from the rheostat linked to the accelerator pedal. They test out with a 10 ohm resistance with the pedal released, then increase in resistance through the travel of the pedal up to some 2k ohms until dropping suddenly to only about 4 ohms with the pedal on the floor. Thanks for posting that link, I will spend some time there and see if I can diagnose my components further. As I see it now though, it's probably the speed controller, and I'm thinking those are not cheap --- right? |
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#5 |
Gone Wild
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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![]() The dropping to 4Ω at full pedal is not correct, but the cart should run until the pedal is all the way down. I also am not sure of the constant voltage at the one spade terminal on the controller. On my cart one of the small spade terminals gets switched 36V.
Just as a thought, try jumping the solenoids large terminals and see if the cart will run. I will advise you to jack up the rear of your cart and put it on jackstands! I should have advised you to do this before. These things can hurt you if they suddenly take off! I believe Titan uses a Curtis controller, but it would be best if you can find any tags or markings that tell you what you have. This way you'll get the proper diagnostic procedure for that particular control system. If it turns out that the controller is bad, see if you can find one used, here ( they come up for sale from time to time ), or try at a cart shop near you. New ones are pretty expensive, but that is another choice. Quite a few of the sponsors sell new controllers. Just check out the other simple things first before going for a controller! ![]() |
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#6 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
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![]() Quote:
Thanks again for that link to EZ-Go tech site. That is the first worthwhile printed material I've seen for this cart. There are some differences between what I found there and my Titan, but they are very similar. I will try jumping the solenoid as you say, but it sure looks like I'm going to need a speed controller. I'll carefully mark all the wires and remove the box and see if I can find some identifying print on it. From what I've looked at online, it sure seems to be a Curtis control of some kind. |
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#7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
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![]() I had to replace 2 Curtis controllers on my Titans. My local dealer was able to get rebuilt controllers for about half the price of new. The came out of someplace in Kansas City.
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#8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
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![]() Well, it's a Curtis 1205-101. I found a rebuilt unit for $222 -- plus a whopping $330 core charge -- sure hope my core's OK!!
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#9 |
Gone Wild
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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![]() I take it you're sure that is the problem. I have a bad Curtis 1205-112. It's problem was reversed from yours. It was full throttle as soon as the solenoid clicked!
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