Cart dies and then goes again

[BobBoyce]

Lots of things can cause problems to appear that never happened before, until they do. Driving oversized tires with a controller not rated for that torque load is one of those things that does cumulative damage to controllers. It takes time for cumulative damage to begin to rear its ugly head. Once that happens, the only solution is to replace the controller with one rated to drive that load, or to reduce tire size to lower the load on the controller.

[Nathandi2468]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Lots of things can cause problems to appear that never happened before, until they do. Driving oversized tires with a controller not rated for that torque load is one of those things that does cumulative damage to controllers. It takes time for cumulative damage to begin to rear its ugly head. Once that happens, the only solution is to replace the controller with one rated to drive that load, or to reduce tire size to lower the load on the controller.

That wouldn’t explain it starting back up immediately and running for another 10-15-20 minutes.


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[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Nathandi2468

That wouldn’t explain it starting back up immediately and running for another 10-15-20 minutes.

Keep thinking that, and keep looking elsewhere. Good luck.

[Nathandi2468]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Keep thinking that, and keep looking elsewhere. Good luck.

Ok, I’ll let you know the controller and tire size and see if you still think that’s the problem. I’m no golf cart expert.


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[Nathandi2468]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Keep thinking that, and keep looking elsewhere. Good luck.

It’s got 23x10.50-12 wheels/tires with a Curtis 350 amp 36v controller


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[JohnnieB]

What year cart?
What Drive type? (Series or Sepex)
What is the battery pack voltage when the cart misbehaves?

[Nathandi2468]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

What year cart?

What Drive type? (Series or Sepex)

What is the battery pack voltage when the cart misbehaves?

it’s a 1997
I don’t know
Voltage is 36-37


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Nathandi2468

1. it’s a 1997
2. I don’t know
3. Voltage is 36-37

1. If the body is metal, it is a Medalist and if it is plastic, it is a TXT.

2. 1997, so it is either a Series drive or DCS (Sepex). Does the controller cover have a Run/Tow switch on it? (If it does it is a DCS)

3. 36-37 volts after cart dies? Before it will run again.

[Nathandi2468]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

1. If the body is metal, it is a Medalist and if it is plastic, it is a TXT.



2. 1997, so it is either a Series drive or DCS (Sepex). Does the controller cover have a Run/Tow switch on it? (If it does it is a DCS)



3. 36-37 volts after cart dies? Before it will run again.

It’s a txt

No run/tow switch

It can die at any time but all I have to do is depress the parking brake and then hit the gas pedal and it goes again. It may go for 5 min or it may go for 20 before it dies again and then you just depress the parking brake again and you’re back in business.


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[Nathandi2468]

BobBoyce,

The wiring is 6 gauge. Do you think that could be the problem? I saw another thread where you suggested a person upgrade to the Curtis 350 (which is what I have) so I’m thinking that’s not the problem but I also saw where suggest running 2 gauge wiring.


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