2004 txt electric 36v ez-go mystry

[rivahpirate]

My God folks if there is anyone out there than can help me I would be eternally grateful. I have a 2004 electric 36 v. txt ez-go cart. I have a neighbor that has the identical cart. I have replaced everything. Now I started testing voltage at the solenoid on the good cart and found that I had 36 volts from the small stud on solenoid to M- while in forward. I do not and can not get that voltage at the same place with mine...can anyone know what I am doing wrong or how to get 36volts to the small field wire with the 2 small black wires to M-? I will gladly pay for the info, if that is what it takes to get my fathers cart going. So far Ive spent a little over a grand on all the parts, motor, controller , 3 solenoids, 2 transductive switches. Please I hope someone has gone thru this before.
desperate Rick

[cgtech]

check the small red wire at the charge recepticle for pack+ when the charger is not plugged in. if you find none, add pack+ to that wire to activate cart. this circuit is there to prevent driving away while charger plugged in.

[rivahpirate]

Thanks I by passed the reed switch to make sure that wasn't the problem

[rivahpirate]

for some reason Im not getting the replies....

[JohnnieB]

The two black wires on the solenoid coil terminal (small terminal with non-banded end of diode connected) go to the reverse beeper and the B- terminal on the controller.
The controller's M- terminal should only have a single heavy gauge cable going to the motor attached to it.

The high current circuit (Heavy gauge cables, larger terminals) and the solenoid activation circuit (light gauge wire and small terminals) are, for the most part, two separate circuits and voltage measurements between the two are more or less meaningless for troubleshooting.

Here is a schematic for a series cart with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

[rivahpirate]

You are correct and that is the correct schematic except that the controler on both carts have b+, b- , and m- the schismatic shows 4 post controller # 1206. A2 is blank on both cart controllers. I've tripled checked everything ant the only difference is in the good cart in forward , key off or on I have 36 volt going from the small post on solenoid where both small black wires are attached one going to reverse buzzer the other to a 4 pin connector on controller. I am positive that is the problem but I don't know where the 36v is coming from on the good cart and why I don't have any voltage at the same two places. M- and small post plus 2 small black wires on the broke cart. It's about killed me at this point. I'm in over a thousand bucks I'm replacement parts. Thanks for your help I really do appreciate it but its not fixing it.

[sonnysmith]

What post are you placing the meters prob.on ? It should always be on the Neg post of battery pack for these test.

[sonnysmith]

can you make the solenoid work by taking a wire from the + side of the battery pack to the small terminals where the two red wires connect on the solenoid ?

[JohnnieB]

The voltage that you are measuring on the good cart, between the controller's M- terminal and the solenoid's small terminal with two small black wires attached is coming through the resistor connected between the two large terminals on the solenoid, via the F/R switch contacts and the motor's Armature and Stator windings.

The fact you cannot measure a voltage between those two points in the bad cart tells me you have problems in the high current loop and/or the solenoid activation circuit, but that is a given because the cart doesn't run.

Your descriptions of where the other ends of the two black wires connected to one of the small terminals go to, tells me your cart is miss-wired or you cannot trace wires and/or you cannot read a schematic.

The first step in troubleshooting is what is the pack voltage?
A fully charged 36V battery pack is 38.2V, but anything above about 37V will suffice for troubleshooting.

The next step is listening for the solenoid to click.
If it does, the problem is in the high current loop.
If it doesn't, the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit.

Let us know if the solenoid clicks or not and we can proceed from that point in a logical progression, or you can continue to poke and hope.

[rivahpirate]

The Solinoid does indeed click I even swapped it out on the cart that is working and get the same results. Again the Solinoid clicks its *** off but I get no voltage to motor from any large lead to motor from controler or Solinoid