2004 precedent regen stopped

[TahoeDawgZ71]

A 2004 Precedent with a Gen 1 pedal assembly would use an MCOR2, part number 102528501

[lockman1]

I stand corrected!

I'll go back to the CC gasser forum now!

[ratclr213]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Your MCOR is located under the floor with a linkage that goes from the pedal to the Motor Controller Output Regulator (MCOR)

To test it, unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors

If that isn't it, let us know and we will help you figure it out. I like to help those that took the time to research and tries to help themselves...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to everyone.

Lockman thank you for the drawing. That was very helpful.

OK nole I found the mcor and pulled the connector.
Put the paper clip in the connector holes like this ???
Toggle it to run and then turn the key on and press on pedal. It still does not go.

Thank You
Rob

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lets see if you are getting the closure at the solenoid. Cart jacked up, place your black probe on the Main Pack Neg and then the Red probe on the Battery side of the solenoids' large lug - you should have pack voltage. On the other sides' large lug (controller side) you should have 0.5 to 1 volt less. Now turn the key On, rocker switch in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed - you should hear a loud click from the solenoid and now have full pack voltage on the controller side lug. If no click and no voltage transfer to the controller side lug, test for the 48 + & - inputs.

At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get pack voltage (If not, we lost the Pos Input)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get pack voltage (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.

If all that checks out, we will check the controller...

[ratclr213]

not sure which is the solenoid ? Is it the same as the precharge resistor ? between the OBC and Controller

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lol! We gotcha buddy....

The solenoid is the 4" x 2" unit you see in the diagram that the Pre-Charge resistor is mounted onto. It is where you Main Pack Pos (Red) cable connects to... It has 2 big lugs for the cables and 2 small spades for the small wires.

[ratclr213]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Lets see if you are getting the closure at the solenoid. Cart jacked up, place your black probe on the Main Pack Neg and then the Red probe on the Battery side of the solenoids' large lug - you should have pack voltage. 51.6

On the other sides' large lug (controller side) you should have 0.5 to 1 volt less. 50.4

Now turn the key On, rocker switch in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed - you should hear a loud click from the solenoid and now have full pack voltage on the controller side lug. 51.4

If no click and no voltage transfer to the controller side lug, test for the 48 + & - inputs.

At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get pack voltage (If not, we lost the Pos Input) 50.6


2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. 1.0



You should get pack voltage (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. 192.5 with dvm set on 200 ohms

If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.

If all that checks out, we will check the controller...

test

[NoleFan4Ever]

So on test 2 you are getting basically 0 vdc? But all the other tests were good??

[Sergio]

Make sure that for test #2 the Pedal is pressed (or You have a paper clip by-passing the MCOR 2-pin connector).

[ratclr213]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

So on test 2 you are getting basically 0 vdc? But all the other tests were good??

2-" Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive."

Yes it showed 1

When I tested the OHMs first time it showed 0.

I reran all the test again just to make sure I was doing it right. Everything was the same except the OHMs this time read 192.5 ? So I tapped on the solenoid and reran all the test. Everything was the same and the OHMs were 192.5 again.

Thanks
Rob