Worn front end looking to lift

[jaywhy]

93 gas club car.
What would be the best bang for the buck lift that will also replace most of the old worn front end parts? I’m open to 4-6” lifts and was eyeing the 4” jacked double a arm lift.

[CP241]

I've got the Steeling 6" on my Carryall. I don't know why it says it won't work with carryall models, it fit and works perfectly. The only thing I had to do that wasn't in the instructions was remove the rear sway bar, everything else followed the directions exactly. (the instructions do leave a bit to be desired, but not a difficult installation either). https://www.steelenggolfcart.com/col...r-ds-1982-2003

It rides a little stiff, but i'm happy with it. I may remove one of the front leaf springs (OEM suspension only has 1 spring in the front, this kit has 2) but it's not THAT stiff that it's really been a priority or a big deal even. Just rides stiffer than stock. It's not expensive and definitely very heavy duty. I'd definitely buy it again. it replaces EVERYTHING in the front end except for tie rods. MY carryall front end had every bad bushing in it. it replaced it all

My only complaint is the SGC "skid plate" or "Name plate" or whatever that is on the front is flimsy and beat/bent up so i'll end up taking that off and making a heavier duty one, but I think it's just for decoration purposes anyway. It's only aesthetic and not a functional part of the kit, other than keeping grass out of the parts.


Whatever lift you get, most say you don't have to remove the front cowl to install. This is true... but... it would be a 20 minutes WELL spent to just remove the cowl. gives you sooooo much more room to work in there.

[BBBHC]

Originally Posted by CP241

(the instructions do leave a bit to be desired, but not a difficult installation either).

Whatever lift you get, most say you don't have to remove the front cowl to install. This is true... but... it would be a 20 minutes WELL spent to just remove the cowl. gives you sooooo much more room to work in there.

I got the Madjax 6" heavy duty double a-arm lift. It replaces all of the front end suspension parts. Tie rods are still stock. For the rear, you just place new axle/shock mount plates on top of the stock leaf springs, which are relocated to the top of the axle. Stock bushings for the shocks and leaf springs are reused. You may want to consider replacing those while you have most of it apart.
You will also want to consider making an "extension" for the swing arm, where the snubber sets in the frame. If you leave it in its stock location, it will bind the rear springs. If you let it hang down outside of the frame, it will, well swing up and down quite a bit. I don't know why any of these companies don't make an extension to alleviate this...

I can't give you any information on the ride quality. I have yet to get the cart out and ride yet. However, as it sits, it is better quality than it was stock!

I totally agree with the two points I quoted above from CP241 for this lift kit as well! As for the instructions, for this kit though, if you have any mechanical know how at all, it is not a problem to figure it out. There is also a video on YouTube of the installation.

[CP241]

Is this normal? Lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz6B6-o_XcM

Funny thing is, cart drove great. I had no idea the bushings were THAT bad. Every single one in the front end was that bad.

Heres a pic of the stupid name plate. I left it on becauae it does keep grass out of the front end, but not good for much else. And a pic showing the OEM arm compared to the one provided with the kit. HUGE difference

One thing to mention, get new bushings for the rear leaf springs before installing the kit. You're gonna need them. And you'll already have the leaf springs removed so nows the time to replace them.

[jaywhy]

Thanks for the replies, the price on that steeling kit is too hard to pass up! Do you need wheel spacers for new tires? Also could I run the stock wheels until I can get a new set?
Thanks!!!

And I'll take the advice on the rear leaf spring bushings as well!!

[CP241]

I already had a set of 10" wheels with 20" turf tires, so I'm not really sure if the 8" stock wheels would fit or not. I did not try. It looked a little goofy on the 20" tires that I had on the 10" wheels, but not too bad. I can't imagine how funny it would look on stock 18's lol

I've got 22" tires on it now, and happy with the performance. Didn't lose any noticeable power (I still can pull my 5x8 trailer loaded up with no problems) but gained quite a bit of speed and a TON of ground clearance. I live out in the country so it's all field driving and dirt roads for me; it was bottoming out all over the place at stock height. No more issues with that

SEarch around on craigslist or facebook, I see wheel/tire sets for pretty cheap all the time. It will clear WAY more than the 22" tires I have, but I "remounted" my roof so it's a little taller before I lifted it. I kept hitting my head getting in and out so I raised the roof about 6" (plus i'm a little claustrophobic I guess lol and I like the extra space above my head). Any bigger than 22" tires and I Can't fit through my garage door. The cart would clear 25's I think pretty easily withour rubbing.

Plus when I hit a rut or bump hard and bounce out of my seat, I don't hit my head on the roof anymore. Bonus

[jaywhy]

I'll probably just order the tires when I order the lift. I'm lying to myself if i think ill have the patience to wait on buying them anyways. I just have to make sure I have the right rear shocks and ill order the steeling kit.

[jaywhy]

Just my luck the shocks I have are the ones that don't work!! :(

[BBBHC]

Originally Posted by jaywhy

Just my luck the shocks I have are the ones that don't work!! :(

Well if they are the originals, you might want to replace them anyway. The Madjax lift I got comes with plates to fit both types of shocks. One is just a flat plate and the other has a 90 degree turn on the end. Here is a post from my build thread that explains my experience with Madjax. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/lithi...ml#post1552490 Also the picture I posted where I talk about my experience shows the two kinds of plates. If you look closely at the second plate from the top, that is the one that has the 90 degree turn.

As to wheel size, I don't know about the Steeleng kit, but Madjax specifically says wheels need to be 10" or bigger. If I remember right from my looking around about a year ago, most if not all kits have that requirement.

[Ponchjoe]

After determining mine is an old BU double A arm that is so worn out it's not driveable on gravel, I just ordered a Jakes 4" to replace it. It would've cost about $150 to order all the bushings, reamer etc so I'm trashing it.