cart doesn't want to "creep" (run at slow speeds)

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by CP241

I'd bet dollars to donuts you'll find the carb starts to open before the microswitches click/starter starts to turn.

I’m going to sound crazy but I finally got around to messing with the cart this winter. How do I adjust this cable to the black box? You’re right the carb was opening the same time as the micro switch was moving.

This won’t kill my top end will it ?



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[nwocart]

I loosened up the cable to about half adjustment and it seems to make no difference. Will keep tinkering


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[CP241]

You just loosen the 10mm nut and adjust it so the carb doesnt open until after the microswitch clicks. Then tighten the other side to lock the cable in place with the slack.

Also check the cable running from the governor to the carb and make sure there is NO resistance in the cable. When those cables stick they can cause similar issues as well.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by CP241

You just loosen the 10mm nut and adjust it so the carb doesnt open until after the microswitch clicks. Then tighten the other side to lock the cable in place with the slack.

Also check the cable running from the governor to the carb and make sure there is NO resistance in the cable. When those cables stick they can cause similar issues as well.

Adjusting the 10mm nut does nothing. All the way in it just puts tension (and eventually pulls ) on the throttle cable.

All the way out it gives me a little play of pedal movement before carb cable moves but I don’t think it’s enough. But it’s like the motor still starts revved up so high it will not creep. I don’t think I can adjust it enough since the carb cable is still moving right after the micro switch goes. Can this be adjusted out anywhere else.


Grabbing the cable from the gov to the carb it moves very easily


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[meimk]

Does your throttle plate close all the way? I've seen many that someone had turned the idle set screw in some. The same carb can have different uses in different applications, but on a pedal start cart you can just get rid of it. That could hold the throttle part way open even before the cable starts to pull it. As CP241 mentioned the governor to carb cable can cause issues too. If it has too much drag through it's housing it can keep the carb throat from closing fully at rest. I like to get them set where the engine will start to run at a slow enough engine speed that it doesn't close the clutch sheaves on the belt right away. Club Cars do that well with the bearing on the primary clutch shaft.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by nwocart

Adjusting the 10mm nut does nothing. All the way in it just puts tension (and eventually pulls ) on the throttle cable.

All the way out it gives me a little play of pedal movement before carb cable moves but I don’t think it’s enough. But it’s like the motor still starts revved up so high it will not creep. I don’t think I can adjust it enough since the carb cable is still moving right after the micro switch goes. Can this be adjusted out anywhere else.


Grabbing the cable from the gov to the carb it moves very easily


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There should be 2 nuts. One on the inside of the box and one on the outside. Loosen one of them and then spin the other with your fingers to put more slack on the cable inside the box. Then finger tighten both of them snug and test drive. Adjust until you get the results you want and then snug them with a wrench.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by CP241

There should be 2 nuts. One on the inside of the box and one on the outside. Loosen one of them and then spin the other with your fingers to put more slack on the cable inside the box. Then finger tighten both of them snug and test drive. Adjust until you get the results you want and then snug them with a wrench.

I did just that, to no avail. It was already set with all of the cable housing slack (the threaded part) inside the box. So I started just like you said and went small increments until all of the slack was outside the box.

Slack inside the box - cart at least runs, still starts quick. pedal moves a little before carb cable starts to move but its not much after. Still both move very closely.

The further I adjusted it in the other direction, two things happened: the cable from the governor to the carb would tighten, and eventually start to open the carb once I had it adjusted with all of the cable slack outside the box. There would be too much slack on the cable coming out of the box for the cart to even activate the microswitch, but when I grabbed the cable by hand the cart would fire, again with the carb partially open already. So I know that adjusting it this direction is not what I need.

I adjusted it back in small increments back to original position, and just as when I started adjusting it, and the carb closed back up (relieving pressure on the carb/gov cable). Eventually the cable out of the black box got enough slack out of it to start working again (when it was adjusted to the original position).

I hope this makes sense. TL:DR - cable at the black box is already adjusted to give as much slack as possible (all of the extra housing inside the black box) and the carb still opens almost immediately after the microswitch goes.


was looking at the governor to see if there is a way to adjust it but I didn't feel like pulling off my rear seat / plastic cover to get a good look last night.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by meimk

Does your throttle plate close all the way? I've seen many that someone had turned the idle set screw in some. The same carb can have different uses in different applications, but on a pedal start cart you can just get rid of it. That could hold the throttle part way open even before the cable starts to pull it. As CP241 mentioned the governor to carb cable can cause issues too. If it has too much drag through it's housing it can keep the carb throat from closing fully at rest. I like to get them set where the engine will start to run at a slow enough engine speed that it doesn't close the clutch sheaves on the belt right away. Club Cars do that well with the bearing on the primary clutch shaft.

from what I could tell with my flashlight/feeling it, yes the throttle plate is closing all of the way, barely. I hadnt considered this carb having an idle screw since theyre pedal start. I will try to figure out which screw is the idle screw and try that tonight.


cable felt good last night, was going to throw a little lube in the housing but it didnt look easy to get to from the carb end so I haven't yet.


which number is it? I'm assuming number 3. Could screw number 2 be adjusted so that it doesn't throttle up as quickly?

[Fairtax4me]

In that diagram #2 is the throttle stop screw. That should be turned out until it no longer touches the throttle lever, then turn in until it just barely touches, then turn in another 1/4 turn.
#3 is the idle mixture screw which changes the fuel mixture when starting. This normally has a block on the screw so it can’t be turned in or out more than about 2/3s of a turn. If the carb has been replaced with an aftermarket carb, it may not have the block on it. If that’s the case, then check the adjustment by counting the number of turns In to stop. When it stops turning do not tighten it or damage to the screw and carb may result.
Normal adjustment is 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out from stop.

Does your carb have the return spring attached to the throttle lever? Should be a small spring that runs from the top of the throttle lever to the bracket that’s over the front of the carb.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

In that diagram #2 is the throttle stop screw. That should be turned out until it no longer touches the throttle lever, then turn in until it just barely touches, then turn in another 1/4 turn.
#3 is the idle mixture screw which changes the fuel mixture when starting. This normally has a block on the screw so it can’t be turned in or out more than about 2/3s of a turn. If the carb has been replaced with an aftermarket carb, it may not have the block on it. If that’s the case, then check the adjustment by counting the number of turns In to stop. When it stops turning do not tighten it or damage to the screw and carb may result.
Normal adjustment is 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out from stop.

Does your carb have the return spring attached to the throttle lever? Should be a small spring that runs from the top of the throttle lever to the bracket that’s over the front of the carb.

ok that ones air fuel, i wasn't sure. i'll check #2.

yes, Carb has a spring on the top of it under the plastic cover that connects to the throttle lever.