2000 Club Car DS Run Issues

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by CP241

Cool beans

And no, it doesn't HAVE to be an OEM coil. You only have to use OEM parts if you want it to work

Aftermarket coils are junk. Seldom do they last very long and they really aren't much cheaper than oem.

O.k., cool. Well, we will see and I agree with you on the cost, as long as this seems to do the job and work, I will be a happy camper.

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by CP241

Cool beans

And no, it doesn't HAVE to be an OEM coil. You only have to use OEM parts if you want it to work

Aftermarket coils are junk. Seldom do they last very long and they really aren't much cheaper than oem.

O.k., so everything is running well and continues to do so with the OEM ignitor/coil. :-) Yeah !! And thank you for the advice.

Next question, this is very repeatable as well.

When I start the cart and press the pedal, it will fire and act like it is going to start and then it won't but on the second fire it will start and stay running fine ??? Now, I am not releasing the pedal at all during this either. Meaning you press on the pedal and hold it lets say about half way, it will fire and seem like its going to start but doesn't and I just hold the pedal right where I have it and in about 2 seconds while it is turning over it will fire again and then run fine and continue to run fine ?? This is extremely repeatable and doesn't matter if its warm or cold.

[CP241]

Start simple and free.

First I'd pull the carb and give it a good cleaning if you havent already.

Second, make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly in the black box by the air filter. Theres a 10mm nut threaded on the cable for adjustments. You want to turn the cart OFF and slowly depress the pedal with the cover off. Watch the carb. 2 things will happen. The microswitch in the box will click and the carb will begin to open. I like to set it so that the microswitch clicks after about an inch of travel. The carb should NOT move yet. After another 1/2" or so of pedal travel you should start to see the carb barely start to move.

The microswitch tells the starter to turn. If the carb begins to open during or before the microswitch clicks, it wilm make it hard to start. It will also kill low speed operation. Set up correctly you can creep slow enough you could get out and walk faster.

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by CP241

Start simple and free.

First I'd pull the carb and give it a good cleaning if you havent already.

Second, make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly in the black box by the air filter. Theres a 10mm nut threaded on the cable for adjustments. You want to turn the cart OFF and slowly depress the pedal with the cover off. Watch the carb. 2 things will happen. The microswitch in the box will click and the carb will begin to open. I like to set it so that the microswitch clicks after about an inch of travel. The carb should NOT move yet. After another 1/2" or so of pedal travel you should start to see the carb barely start to move.

The microswitch tells the starter to turn. If the carb begins to open during or before the microswitch clicks, it wilm make it hard to start. It will also kill low speed operation. Set up correctly you can creep slow enough you could get out and walk faster.

Cleaned carb again just to make sure and checked the cable and carb and pedal adjustments. Everything seems right where it should be, as you described.

It will still start for a second and run on the first push of the pedal but then will quit and if I just keep holding the pedal still in the same spot it will fire and on the second run it will stay running. And I mean it fires, it will even start moving just for a second and then quit running on the initial start, its still cranking and then it will fire a second time and stay running indefinitely after that.

It's only when you first go to start it after you have shut it off / stopped and let off the pedal.

[CP241]

Couple things I would check.

First, pull the fuel line off the carb and put it in a jar. Make sure you've got a steady supply.of gas pumping out.

Second, pull the plug and hold it against the valve cover bolt and crank the engine. Is the spark bright and blue, or yellowish in color

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by CP241

Couple things I would check.

First, pull the fuel line off the carb and put it in a jar. Make sure you've got a steady supply.of gas pumping out.

Second, pull the plug and hold it against the valve cover bolt and crank the engine. Is the spark bright and blue, or yellowish in color

Have plenty of fuel coming out and the spark is blue.

If there was a fuel or spark issue I think I would see that during normal run. And, like I said, it runs perfectly and very smooth after it is started. Three out of 10 times it starts right up and runs fine. The other 7 times out of 10 it will start and run for just a second and then go back to turning over and on the second fire it will stay running and run fine.

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by CP241

Couple things I would check.

First, pull the fuel line off the carb and put it in a jar. Make sure you've got a steady supply.of gas pumping out.

Second, pull the plug and hold it against the valve cover bolt and crank the engine. Is the spark bright and blue, or yellowish in color

O.k., I figured it out. If I unhook the ground wire from the rev limiter, everything works perfectly every time. Now, the rev limiter was working as far as cutting the motor when the rpm's got to high, but obviously it is not quite right.

Also, since I just replaced the coil/igniter, is it common to replace both at once ?