2010 Precedent brake question

[theboss20]

Great info...sometimes we overlook things like that...

[Golf cart guy]

Originally Posted by joesam

Actually the creaking and occasional (very soft sounding) scraping sound when applying brakes was the only indication. At first, I thought the sliders had frozen - so I judiciously cleaned and lubed them....but nothing changed when I did that. However the creaking on brake application did seem to get progressively more persistent (from occasional to always).

At speed, there was no audible indication that the bearing was worn. Even stranger is that when I removed the axles, I couldn't feel anything obvious when man handling that bearing.

But it was apart so I replaced both bearings & seals anyway. And Tadaa....all noise gone - brake pedal became just slightly higher (I'm guessing drum was rotating in a very minuscule oval when brakes applied; which may have limited self-adjust just a tiny bit).

Its very rare that a club car rear axle bearing fails and even by your own admission the bearing wasn't bad. The reality too was the bearing wasn't bad. Run across this often also. Had you removed the axle, and just greased the inside of the axle tube where the bearing rides, the noise would have went away. In changing of the bearing, you pretty much did the same thing, so the noise went away, but it had nothing to do with your brake shoes wearing incorrectly.

[joesam]

had nothing to do with your brake shoes wearing incorrectly

I'll agree since I could not detect bearing wear by hand, so you are likely right on all counts - but I was surprised by the uneven wear (not damage like the Precedent photo) but definitely uneven. I did clean (what looked like) varnish from the axle tube. In any case - the silence is golden! The bearings & seals were not expensive. Since it was apart (niggly work with the snap rings), and since I'm keeping the cart; it seemed like a no-brainer to just-do-it all.

[LJ12530]

OK.....pro mechanics....don't laugh. I literally struggled for a couple of hours to replace the rear left brake shoes. This does not include the time it took to remove the hub/shoes and clean/lubricate the moving parts. I just had the hardest time installing the retaining clips/pin and springs. I finally used an Irwin clamp, pic attached, to compress the retaining clip. That made the pin installation much easier. I also learned to install the top spring before putting one shoe in place.

The right side took about 20 minutes, including the time it took to clean and lubricate the moving parts.

I might be a slow learner, but at least I learn

[Golf cart guy]

Originally Posted by LJ12530

OK.....pro mechanics....don't laugh. I literally struggled for a couple of hours to replace the rear left brake shoes. This does not include the time it took to remove the hub/shoes and clean/lubricate the moving parts. I just had the hardest time installing the retaining clips/pin and springs. I finally used an Irwin clamp, pic attached, to compress the retaining clip. That made the pin installation much easier. I also learned to install the top spring before putting one shoe in place.

The right side took about 20 minutes, including the time it took to clean and lubricate the moving parts.

I might be a slow learner, but at least I learn

I'm trying not to laugh

[jjance]

Uneven wear is a characteristic of mechanical brakes. When the brake tension gets to max on one set of brakes the other set can't be tightened anymore. Unlike hydraulic brakes that can work independent of each other and apply equal pressure to both sides.