Reconditioning my batteries.....

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by rib33024

BGW...or... anyone on this forum, ... BGW itself, is/are NOT responsible for your actions in the result of using, or, misusing this information that may cause possible damage to yourself, your property, or someone else!

May I suggest you try another old cure I hear of? That is tossing or simply dropping the batteries to knock the sulfa off of the plates. I hear this makes batteries work better, too.

BGW...or... anyone on this forum, ... BGW itself, is/are NOT responsible for your actions in the result of using, or, misusing this information that may cause possible damage to yourself, your property, or someone else!

[arcitech]

Cost vs. Effectiveness: My time off from work is valuable, if I were to spend the time to drain, rinse, fill, charge and test 6 batteries, and do it carefully, that is roughly 6-8 hours of work. At my going rate for working on my off time that comes out to over 360.00 (equal to about a week of overtime hours), and then I would have batteries that are potentially going to last 1 month to 2 years, never knowing when I could have a problem with a bad cell or failure to charge and NO WARRANTY!

It has been said before on this forum that even a cheap set of new batteries will last for a long time (i.e. +4 years) with proper care and maintenance. Look for a deal, yellow pages under battery distributers or google. Going rate for new 6v retail is 590-800 and 395-450 for cheap ones direct from the distibutor. A little leg work to get new batteries is better than towing the cart home after 7 holes when you paid for the full 18!

[LostHusker]

Randy, I know you have talked about it in the past, but if the batts are getting weak, and you have been tossing around the idea of 48v conversion, then start putting your parts together and make it happen. The batts are going to last a little bit yet, but you know they are getting tired, so just something for you to think about. Batts for golf cart are a huge expense, you do what is best for you in this situation. Good luck!

DO THE CONVERSION

[SpoiledRotten]

Sure is tough to sell you guys on an idea.

I appreciate all of the comments and certainly, the concern for safety. I wasn't buying the idea of the Epsom salt because I did try it on an old marine battery I had lying around. That idea was a snake oil remedy, but still gave it the benefit of the doubt and tested it. This concept seems very doable since the batteries start failing due to the sulfur coating the lead plates. Cleaning the plates and recharging with new sulphuric acid seemed pretty logical.

As far as the environmental issues, that is a non issue. I was going to save the old acid (not dump it) and when I emtied the container that the new acid came from, use it to contain the old acid/water mixture which surely wouldn't be as potent as the new.

I'm still holding off a little while for more beneficial encouragement or discouragement. I put this out here for that very reason. I've had second thoughts from the beginning. Although I don't like throwing money at big ticket items, I can "pretty easily" (imphases on pretty, not easily) afford a new set of batteries, but to the ones that have to "strictly budget" just to get a new fairly inexpensive part for their cart, this could really be huge.

I don't want to get hurt but there is a reason that the auto parts stores sell battery acid in bulk like the 5 gallon container I purchased. That is why I keep telling myself that there may be something to this idea. If you couldn't do something like this for older batteries, why even stock the acid in your store? It's certainly not for the big ticket battery builders. They have their own stock.

Let's discuss this some more, not just the financial issues but safety issues. No amount of money is worth getting 3rd degree burns or loss of eyesight, but done safely, can it be a really doable thing. I realize that the easy answer is just to say go buy new batteries, but let's talk about this a little more in-depth. I'm also doing some more research and like anywhere, I'm finding some positive and negative on it. This is my home base though. If you guys are interested in this experiment, do some research as well, post it here along with your source and we'll see which way the scale tips. If it works, it would be 40.00 for acid compared to 800.00-1000.00 for batteries.

[SpoiledRotten]

http://www.dshs.state.tx.us/epitox/f...furic_acid.pdf

Disposal Methods:
Dilute, neutralize, and/or absorb sulfuric acidcontaining
waste; store in appropriate waste
containers. Dispose of wastes in accordance with
facility hazardous waste generation and characterization
policies.


Although I wouldn't pour the acid into the back yard, if you look at most drain cleaners, you'll find that it is 90% or more of the ingredients is - sulfuric acid. Yep, you just pour that stuff into your drain and it clears clogs and roots from the soil pipes. I'd like to think there's a place somewhere near the place I live that would take the old acid mixture though. If not, it can easily be neutralized.

This drain cleaner is 95% sulpuric acid...
http://www.thriftmarketing.com/thrif...r_pro_acid.htm


So the sulfuric acid and the environment must not be a problem or the EPA would be shutting down the use of this in drains, septic, and sewer treatment plants.

[SpoiledRotten]

And from what I'm reading, the mixture of acid to distilled water is about 33% acid.

[e-z-go1988]

Originally Posted by SpoiledRotten

And from what I'm reading, the mixture of acid to distilled water is about 33% acid.

Also Randy, I don't think the batteries weigh much less than the day you purchased them so the Lead is still in there and you're providing the new electrolyte!

Thanks for the link on the drain cleaner.

WHAT IS PULSE CHARGING TECHNOLOGY?
Pulse Charge Technology is a patented, frequency specific*, variable boost voltage process used ostensibly to dissolve sulfate crystals back into the battery's electrolyte solution. All lead-acid batteries are adversely affected by the buildup of these deposits because as they collect on battery plates, they effectively restrict the flow of electrons and "lock away" active material required for normal operation. As this barrier becomes thicker and thicker, the battery's ability to accept a charge or deliver energy is drastically diminished, resulting in the perception that the battery is no longer usable.
*Tuned to the molecular frequency of the sulfur crystal of 3.26 MHz.

Pulse Technology allows the user to electronically dissolve sulfation formations back into the electrolyte solution without taking the battery out of service. Most importantly, if used on a regular basis, Pulse Technology will help keep the lead plates free and clean of sulfate crystals allowing it to operate unhampered at full capacity. This process generates little or no heat (to "boil" the acid away), and can in no way harm the battery itself.

[SpoiledRotten]

In researching, I found this little tidbit of information.....


if they are wet cells; drain acid [save it] then flush three times with distilled h20. put cider vinegar into all cells. if none of them turn milky white, let sit for two days. then drain vinegar and flush 5 or 6 times with distilled h20. return sulfurous acid [filtered if possible] to cells. top off with d-h20. trickle charge at correct voltage and low amps[say 3] for a week or so. this has worked well for me with 12 v wet cells. be safe wiith acid. dont put flame or cigs near it, it will explode. wear gloves and goggles. need good ventillation. acid can be diluted only so much. use hydrometer method to electrolytic specs of battery..... acetic acid in vinegar removes the particulate build up from plates that gets so thick that it prevents electron exchange between them, not much unlike the corrosion you find on outer battery terminals. for dry cells; many will come back to life with a trickle charge of 2 to 3 weeks [say around 2 amps]. though ive not tried the dry cell trickle, ive heard it works ok depending on the age, number of cycles in the batteries' life and whether it has been discharged below 10% charge too many times. good luck......... j

[SpoiledRotten]

Originally Posted by e-z-go1988

Also Randy, I don't think the batteries weigh much less than the day you purchased them so the Lead is still in there and you're providing the new electrolyte!

Thanks for the link on the drain cleaner.

Wasn't trying to get anyone to go buy drain cleaner. Just posted to prove that the environment obviously tolerates sulfuric acid.

[SpoiledRotten]

Another link and info using the Epsom Salts only to clean the lead.. remove it then introduce new acid to the battery.

http://www.golflink.com/how_3571_ref...batteries.html

The problem with golf cart batteries is that they are not recharged as they are being used. This constant discharging causes a sulfur buildup on the lead plates in the battery, which can reduce the battery's ability to take a charge. This can make what is potentially still a good battery appear to be virtually dead. Fortunately you can clean the sulfur off the plates relatively simply and very inexpensively. This can restore an otherwise perfectly fine battery and extend the life of your batteries several months or even a year or more.


Step 1 Disconnect the battery cables from the battery using your crescent wrench. Use your crescent wrench to remove the nut holding the battery strap in place and then lift the battery out of the cart and place it on a flat surface in a well-ventilated area.

Step 2 Remove the plastic caps from each cell of the battery. If one or more cells are low on fluid, use your turkey baster to fill the cell(s) with distilled water. Do NOT use tap water as the chemicals in tap water can ruin your battery.

Step 3 Plug in your battery charger and connect it to the battery. Be certain to connect the red cable to the positive (+) terminal of the battery and the black cable to the negative (-) post. Set the charger to 2.3 or 2.35 volts and then turn the charger on and allow it to charge the battery overnight. If you are lucky this is all you will need to do. If your battery still will not accept a charge go to

Step 4. Step 4 Mix 10 full tablespoons of Epsom salts into one quart of water that has been warmed in the microwave in a glass container. Stir until the salts have dissolved.

Step 5 Remove approximately half of the fluid from each cell of the batter with your turkey baster and then refill the cells with the Epsom salts mixture. Replace the battery caps and shake the battery to mix the Epsom salts in each cell.

Step 6 Remove the plastic caps from each cell and reattach the battery charger just as you did in Step 3. Follow the directions in Step 3 for recharging your battery overnight.

Step 7 Check to see if your battery has taken a charge. If not, then it is probable that the lead plates in your battery are too old and dissolved and the battery is no good. However, if the battery has taken a charge you will want to turn off the battery charger and remove approximately three-fourths of the liquid from each cell using your turkey baster. Refill each cell with new battery acid that you purchased from your local hardware store or car parts store.

Step 8 Follow the directions in Step 3 for charging your battery overnight. Turn off the charger and remove it from the battery. Replace the filler caps and then place the battery back into your golf cart, using your crescent wrench to reattach the battery strap. Reattach the cables to the battery, being certain to attach the red cable to the positive (+) battery post. Your cart should now be ready to drive. Recharge the battery each night using a trickle charge in order to maintain your battery.