Fried Controller

calbird3 · 10-09-2013, 03:21 PM

I picked up a 1992 Marathon electric EZ GO and started by removing and cleaning all of the connection, replacing some wires and the batteries. When I turned the key on, I fried the F&R micro switch and the POT micro switch and maybe the controller. I had replaced the diode backwards. I replaced the micro switches and a new diode. Now the cart will go in forward but just a click in reverse....no movement. It would go in reverse when I got the cart. If I fried the controller would it work in one direction but not the other? I need to add that the two contact bars in the F&R selector were not installed correctly...the bars that connects post A and B or C and D.

pete959 · 10-09-2013, 08:00 PM

imo if u go forward and not backward u have other problems not controller it doesnt care about direction

gornoman · 10-09-2013, 08:42 PM

On a series cart such as yours the F/R assembly changes the polarity of the voltage going the motor. It must be assembled and wired correctly in order to operate correctly. Do you have a proper schematic of your cart?

calbird3 · 10-10-2013, 05:09 PM

I have the schematic. I will recheck all wiring. I had read that if you installed the diode backwards you will burn the controller. Thought that was the problem. I'll get back after checking. Thanks

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 11:50 AM

I checked all of the wiring and it is correct. The reverse buzzer was not working so I had removed it and did not connect the micro switch to the neg post of the battery pack. Today, I ran a wire that bypassed the reverse buzzer and when I tried going in reverse, there was a slight motion. Not enough to turn the wheels a 1/4 inch. I tried reverse holding the foot pedal down and nothing moved but I could smell something getting hot. The wire from the F&R switch post B to the motor S-1 was hot. I had remover the motor and cleaned it inside and out. Do you think I could have a short in the motor?

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 11:58 AM

Do NOT bypass the reverse buzzer, simply remove it.

It's 36 volts. Bypassing it would be like bypassing a light in your car, only buggies typically don't have fuses.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 12:06 PM

If you look at the schematic, there are two microswitches on the FNR. One closes in F and R, but not in neutral. The other only closes in R. Make sure you don't have them wired up in reverse. The reverse micro makes the buzzer buzz and gives you 1/2 speed in reverse, if your controller has this feature.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 12:19 PM

Further,
On a series cart, if it goes in one direction, the following are good, and don't need to be questioned:

key switch, batteries, pedal box including micro, solenoid, controller, and motor.

I'd check the wiring on the FNR micros, and the FNR itself.

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 01:35 PM

Should the solenoid click when I turn the key on? It clicks with F&R selector in F or R and foot off the pedal.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 01:47 PM

No it shouldn't. Did it do this before you rewired it? If so you micro in the pedal box may be bad, or maladjusted. Adjustment is covered in the Service Manual found in the stickies.

But you can also just test it without opening up the pedal box. Just check continuity with pedal up and pedal down.

10-09-2013, 03:21 PM	#1
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Fried Controller I picked up a 1992 Marathon electric EZ GO and started by removing and cleaning all of the connection, replacing some wires and the batteries. When I turned the key on, I fried the F&R micro switch and the POT micro switch and maybe the controller. I had replaced the diode backwards. I replaced the micro switches and a new diode. Now the cart will go in forward but just a click in reverse....no movement. It would go in reverse when I got the cart. If I fried the controller would it work in one direction but not the other? I need to add that the two contact bars in the F&R selector were not installed correctly...the bars that connects post A and B or C and D.

10-09-2013, 08:00 PM	#2
pete959 Gone Wild Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Atlanta Ga Posts: 211	Re: Fried Controller imo if u go forward and not backward u have other problems not controller it doesnt care about direction

10-09-2013, 08:42 PM	#3
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,291	Re: Fried Controller On a series cart such as yours the F/R assembly changes the polarity of the voltage going the motor. It must be assembled and wired correctly in order to operate correctly. Do you have a proper schematic of your cart?

10-10-2013, 05:09 PM	#4
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller I have the schematic. I will recheck all wiring. I had read that if you installed the diode backwards you will burn the controller. Thought that was the problem. I'll get back after checking. Thanks

10-12-2013, 11:50 AM	#5
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller I checked all of the wiring and it is correct. The reverse buzzer was not working so I had removed it and did not connect the micro switch to the neg post of the battery pack. Today, I ran a wire that bypassed the reverse buzzer and when I tried going in reverse, there was a slight motion. Not enough to turn the wheels a 1/4 inch. I tried reverse holding the foot pedal down and nothing moved but I could smell something getting hot. The wire from the F&R switch post B to the motor S-1 was hot. I had remover the motor and cleaned it inside and out. Do you think I could have a short in the motor?

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10-12-2013, 11:58 AM	#6
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller Do NOT bypass the reverse buzzer, simply remove it. It's 36 volts. Bypassing it would be like bypassing a light in your car, only buggies typically don't have fuses.

10-12-2013, 12:06 PM	#7
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller If you look at the schematic, there are two microswitches on the FNR. One closes in F and R, but not in neutral. The other only closes in R. Make sure you don't have them wired up in reverse. The reverse micro makes the buzzer buzz and gives you 1/2 speed in reverse, if your controller has this feature.

10-12-2013, 12:19 PM	#8
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller Further, On a series cart, if it goes in one direction, the following are good, and don't need to be questioned: key switch, batteries, pedal box including micro, solenoid, controller, and motor. I'd check the wiring on the FNR micros, and the FNR itself.

10-12-2013, 01:35 PM	#9
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller Should the solenoid click when I turn the key on? It clicks with F&R selector in F or R and foot off the pedal.

10-12-2013, 01:47 PM	#10
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller No it shouldn't. Did it do this before you rewired it? If so you micro in the pedal box may be bad, or maladjusted. Adjustment is covered in the Service Manual found in the stickies. But you can also just test it without opening up the pedal box. Just check continuity with pedal up and pedal down.

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