Fried Controller

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 02:03 PM

Did it do this before you rewired it?.......I don't know. I don't think so. When I got it home I tried to drive it into the shop but the batteries were so weak I had to push it.
I have 2 micros on the F&R switch and 1 on the POT. Is there another in the pedal box? I didn't see any wires going to the pedal box.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calbird3

Did it do this before you rewired it?.......I don't know. I don't think so. When I got it home I tried to drive it into the shop but the batteries were so weak I had to push it.
I have 2 micros on the F&R switch and 1 on the POT. Is there another in the pedal box? I didn't see any wires going to the pedal box.

The pot is what I called the pedal box. Those are the only three you have. Take a look at the schematic and you see the pot micro has to be closed, the key switch on and the FNR micro has to be closed before the solenoid will close (clunk). We've confirmed your key switch works, but you either have a wiring problem or your pot micro is stuck closed.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 02:24 PM

And get it on the charger. Discharged batteries will quickly turn into permanently dead batteries.

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 02:56 PM

I just checked the POT Micro and it is not stuck, it is open when pedal is not pressed and closed with the pedal down. I removed the wire that bypassed the reverse buzzer.
When I was cleaning everything, I had the F&R switch apart, every piece. When I went to reassemble it, I realized I should have taken pictures. I went to the parts web sites and looked at the pictures to see how to put it back together. Is there an exploded view of the F&R switch available? I think I need to go back through the F&R switch.

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 04:11 PM

Yurtle, you said "Adjustment is covered in the Service Manual found in the stickies". I'm new here. How do I find the Stickies?
Thanks

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 04:20 PM

That's more for an ITS throttle box. A pot box is pretty easy, from the pics I've seen.

The very first posts you see are red and are called Stickies. Here a link to the one you want:

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

There are wiring diagrams, Owner's Manual - kinda basic stuff, Service Manual - how to fix everything, and Parts Manual - which shows exploded diagrams.

Do you have a handheld volt ohm meter of any kind? Most are digital, and you'll see folks refer to them as DMM or DVM. The old school ones were Volt Ohm Miliammeter or VOM.

You need to look at your schematic and see how the voltage goes from negative, through the various switches, through the solenoid, and then to positive. Something is closed, or miswired, if the solenoid clicks when you turn the keyswitch on. Let's get the low amperage circuit working first, than we can go on to the possibility of a problem with the high current part, which includes the FNR.

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 04:28 PM

Yes, I have a multimeter.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 04:30 PM

Please post either the wiring diagram you're using or a link to it. I didn't realize you have a pot box. I have an ITS, and pot boxes do 1/2 speed reverse differently, so I may have jumped the gun about which components I said were good if a series buggy runs in either direction. I still suspect wiring, if it used to work, but sometimes old components die if you mess with them.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 04:39 PM

Two things to check...

Just 'cause a switch lever is moving doesn't mean the guts haven't been compromised. Check with you multimeter that the microswitches are actually opening and closing - continuity.

A lot of microswitches have a Common (C) spade terminal, and one that's Normally Open (NO) and one that's Normally Closed (NC). The way the switch was designed and the way it's used may be identical or may be the opposite, if that makes sense. If the switch is sitting on a bench, C to NO will show no continuity, while installed may be the opposite. If your micros only have two contacts, disregard this. You still need to make sure the two micros on the FNR are wired the way the schematic shows, and not reversed.

Did the backup beeper used to work? Not that that helps, but it should help indicate whether the FNR micros are wired correctly.

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 04:43 PM

I uploaded the picture but I don't see it. I will post this and see if it is attaCHED.

10-12-2013, 02:03 PM	#11
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller Did it do this before you rewired it?.......I don't know. I don't think so. When I got it home I tried to drive it into the shop but the batteries were so weak I had to push it. I have 2 micros on the F&R switch and 1 on the POT. Is there another in the pedal box? I didn't see any wires going to the pedal box.

10-12-2013, 02:24 PM	#13
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller And get it on the charger. Discharged batteries will quickly turn into permanently dead batteries.

10-12-2013, 02:56 PM	#14
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller I just checked the POT Micro and it is not stuck, it is open when pedal is not pressed and closed with the pedal down. I removed the wire that bypassed the reverse buzzer. When I was cleaning everything, I had the F&R switch apart, every piece. When I went to reassemble it, I realized I should have taken pictures. I went to the parts web sites and looked at the pictures to see how to put it back together. Is there an exploded view of the F&R switch available? I think I need to go back through the F&R switch.

10-12-2013, 04:11 PM	#15
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller Yurtle, you said "Adjustment is covered in the Service Manual found in the stickies". I'm new here. How do I find the Stickies? Thanks

10-12-2013, 04:20 PM	#16
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller That's more for an ITS throttle box. A pot box is pretty easy, from the pics I've seen. The very first posts you see are red and are called Stickies. Here a link to the one you want: Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html There are wiring diagrams, Owner's Manual - kinda basic stuff, Service Manual - how to fix everything, and Parts Manual - which shows exploded diagrams. Do you have a handheld volt ohm meter of any kind? Most are digital, and you'll see folks refer to them as DMM or DVM. The old school ones were Volt Ohm Miliammeter or VOM. You need to look at your schematic and see how the voltage goes from negative, through the various switches, through the solenoid, and then to positive. Something is closed, or miswired, if the solenoid clicks when you turn the keyswitch on. Let's get the low amperage circuit working first, than we can go on to the possibility of a problem with the high current part, which includes the FNR.

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10-12-2013, 04:28 PM	#17
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller Yes, I have a multimeter.

10-12-2013, 04:30 PM	#18
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller Please post either the wiring diagram you're using or a link to it. I didn't realize you have a pot box. I have an ITS, and pot boxes do 1/2 speed reverse differently, so I may have jumped the gun about which components I said were good if a series buggy runs in either direction. I still suspect wiring, if it used to work, but sometimes old components die if you mess with them.

10-12-2013, 04:39 PM	#19
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller Two things to check... Just 'cause a switch lever is moving doesn't mean the guts haven't been compromised. Check with you multimeter that the microswitches are actually opening and closing - continuity. A lot of microswitches have a Common (C) spade terminal, and one that's Normally Open (NO) and one that's Normally Closed (NC). The way the switch was designed and the way it's used may be identical or may be the opposite, if that makes sense. If the switch is sitting on a bench, C to NO will show no continuity, while installed may be the opposite. If your micros only have two contacts, disregard this. You still need to make sure the two micros on the FNR are wired the way the schematic shows, and not reversed. Did the backup beeper used to work? Not that that helps, but it should help indicate whether the FNR micros are wired correctly.

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