Fried Controller

calbird3 · 10-12-2013, 04:56 PM

The reverse beeper did not work when I got the cart. Remember, I cooked the F&R and POT micros when I first put it back together and tried to drive the cart. I installed 2 new micro switches and they are wired as per the diagram....without the reverse beeper.
I will check to see if I have cooked another switch. It will be tomorrow before I can get back to the cart. I want to thank you for your help.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 05:00 PM

OK, It appears both MS-4 FNR micros close when in reverse. One just powers the beeper, and one adds or removes a series resistor. I see four micros, though MS-4 may be housed in a single unit with four or more spade terminals? MS-2 kills the solenoid when in Neutral, and MS-3 is the pot box micro.

I would say that MS-4 could be frozen in open or closed, and it should still work, though may be stuck in 1/2 speed and/or beeper may always be on or off. MS-2 and MS-3 need to work. MS-3 seems to be the only one that could cause the solenoid to engage when the key switch is on, but pedal is not pressed. MS-2 seems to be OK, as you already said solenoid will NOT engage with key switch on, but FNR in N.

Or wiring may be off.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 05:03 PM

One thing to note, it appears your beeper is powered by only 6 volts. Bypassing it would only short one battery, not the whole pack, as I had assumed. This is probably what you smelled, and could have killed half of MS-4.

Again, MS-4 doesn't seem to be necessary to run.

yurtle · 10-12-2013, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calbird3

The reverse beeper did not work when I got the cart. Remember, I cooked the F&R and POT micros when I first put it back together and tried to drive the cart. I installed 2 new micro switches and they are wired as per the diagram....without the reverse beeper.
I will check to see if I have cooked another switch. It will be tomorrow before I can get back to the cart. I want to thank you for your help.

That was 3 days ago. How am I 'posed to remember that.

I'm actually learning how a pot box works, so it's all good.

calbird3 · 10-14-2013, 12:33 PM

Took longer to get back that I thought. I removed the F&R switch. The attached pics are show the micros and their positions. Thers is a painted F and R on the bracket so you can tell which position the switch is in. There are two brass/copper bars that make connections when the switch is moved. When in F, the bars connects post A to B and C to D. In R, the bars connect B to C and D to A. Hope this helps.

yurtle · 10-14-2013, 02:05 PM

Is MS-4 the one on the right? it appears it may have four spade terminals.

yurtle · 10-14-2013, 02:08 PM

As I said MS-3 seems to be the one I would check electrically.

Once you get the solenoid to function correctly, then we can start trouble-shooting the high amperage circuit.

calbird3 · 10-14-2013, 07:16 PM

Yes. The MS4 is on the right. The two spades that don't have wires on them are for the black and white wires that go to the POT.

calbird3 · 10-14-2013, 07:27 PM

I have checked MS2,3 and 4. All work. Closed until depressed. When depressed they are open.

yurtle · 10-15-2013, 02:15 AM

I'm not sure whether they should be NO or NC, but looking at the schematic, if wired correctly, it is impossible for the solenoid to close unless:

Key switch is closed
FNR is not in N
Pot box micro is closed, meaning you're giving it "gas"

Reverse micro - MS4 appears to be irrelevant to the trouble you have stated, which is - solenoid closes when the key switch is turned on. That tells me either a micro is bad, or the wiring ain't right.

10-12-2013, 04:56 PM	#21
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller The reverse beeper did not work when I got the cart. Remember, I cooked the F&R and POT micros when I first put it back together and tried to drive the cart. I installed 2 new micro switches and they are wired as per the diagram....without the reverse beeper. I will check to see if I have cooked another switch. It will be tomorrow before I can get back to the cart. I want to thank you for your help.

10-12-2013, 05:00 PM	#22
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller OK, It appears both MS-4 FNR micros close when in reverse. One just powers the beeper, and one adds or removes a series resistor. I see four micros, though MS-4 may be housed in a single unit with four or more spade terminals? MS-2 kills the solenoid when in Neutral, and MS-3 is the pot box micro. I would say that MS-4 could be frozen in open or closed, and it should still work, though may be stuck in 1/2 speed and/or beeper may always be on or off. MS-2 and MS-3 need to work. MS-3 seems to be the only one that could cause the solenoid to engage when the key switch is on, but pedal is not pressed. MS-2 seems to be OK, as you already said solenoid will NOT engage with key switch on, but FNR in N. Or wiring may be off.

10-12-2013, 05:03 PM	#23
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller One thing to note, it appears your beeper is powered by only 6 volts. Bypassing it would only short one battery, not the whole pack, as I had assumed. This is probably what you smelled, and could have killed half of MS-4. Again, MS-4 doesn't seem to be necessary to run.

10-14-2013, 02:05 PM	#26
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller Is MS-4 the one on the right? it appears it may have four spade terminals.

10-14-2013, 02:08 PM	#27
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller As I said MS-3 seems to be the one I would check electrically. Once you get the solenoid to function correctly, then we can start trouble-shooting the high amperage circuit.

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10-14-2013, 07:16 PM	#28
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller Yes. The MS4 is on the right. The two spades that don't have wires on them are for the black and white wires that go to the POT.

10-14-2013, 07:27 PM	#29
calbird3 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Petersburg, Va. Posts: 29	Re: Fried Controller I have checked MS2,3 and 4. All work. Closed until depressed. When depressed they are open.

10-15-2013, 02:15 AM	#30
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: Fried Controller I'm not sure whether they should be NO or NC, but looking at the schematic, if wired correctly, it is impossible for the solenoid to close unless: Key switch is closed FNR is not in N Pot box micro is closed, meaning you're giving it "gas" Reverse micro - MS4 appears to be irrelevant to the trouble you have stated, which is - solenoid closes when the key switch is turned on. That tells me either a micro is bad, or the wiring ain't right.

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