36v/24v Voltage Converter Schematic

[TXHop]

Hey Guys,
I have a question about installing a Scotty's voltage converter.
The instructions are straight forward for a new install.

I'm wanting to install it inline with the existing wiring on my '07 TXT.
I'm also installing a Blue Sea Fuse block with ground bar in place of the stock fuse block.
My question is how close is this schematic that i drew up?
Will I need to move my ground wire for the lights off the existing battery pack?
And move it to the block somehow? The existing fuse block only has the hot side as of now.

[JohnnieB]

Nice artwork.

Three issues:
1. The Bluesea 50xx series has a Max voltage rating of 32V
2. The item shown on drawing is not a 5051. The 5051 has 12 independent circuits, you probably are looking for a distribution block with a common positive bus and a common negative bus.
3. Get rid of the LED bargraph SoC meter and install a DVM type.

[TXHop]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Nice artwork.

Three issues:
1. The Bluesea 50xx series has a Max voltage rating of 32V
2. The item shown on drawing is not a 5051. The 5051 has 12 independent circuits, you probably are looking for a distribution block with a common positive bus and a common negative bus.
3. Get rid of the LED bargraph SoC meter and install a DVM type.

Thanks! I'm a draftsman.
The bluesea block I bought is the 5015. Fat fingered that.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/5015..._Bus_and_Cover
It's going to power the stock accessories with 12v.
It has common busses that I can use to hook up any aditional items and not have to terminate on the battery.
The problem I'm having is exactly how to hook up the existing lights. The green wire on one end supplied the 12V from two 6V batteries.
The ground is common to everything on the cart, but I'm not sure.

The ground post has 3 wires on it. One to the controller, One to the charger plug, I assume that the third is the accessory ground?

[JohnnieB]

I had a brain fart on the voltage.

The third wire on the battery pack's main negative terminal must be a common return for all the 12V accessories, or they wouldn't be working.
You can either leave it as is, or connect it to the negative Bus on the 5015 and run a new wire from the negative bus to the main negative terminal on the battery pack, or you could trace out the wiring and run a new ground wire from each of the accessories.

As for the positive wire, just move them over from the original fuse block, as shown on your drawing.

[TXHop]

The factory wiring is all nice and loomed up. I'd hate to go cutting into it to figure out how the negative wires are ran.
Is the red wire from the SOC Meter to the Key switch 36V or 12V?
I know the blu/wht wires are 12V wasn't sure about the WHT/YEL on the switch.
I installed the factory SOC meter with a double lug off of B on the switch.
I didn't stick a meter to it at the time.
Does the controller change the voltage? the WHT/YEL and WHT go back to plug J1 pins 8&9. Should be 36V?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by TXHop

The factory wiring is all nice and loomed up. I'd hate to go cutting into it to figure out how the negative wires are ran.

1. Is the red wire from the SOC Meter to the Key switch 36V or 12V?
I know the blu/wht wires are 12V wasn't sure about the WHT/YEL on the switch.

2. I installed the factory SOC meter with a double lug off of B on the switch.
I didn't stick a meter to it at the time.

3. Does the controller change the voltage? the WHT/YEL and WHT go back to plug J1 pins 8&9. Should be 36V?

1. 36V. It only turns the display on and off, if connected right. There are two red wires so they sometimes get mixed up.

2. That type meter has a nasty habit of re-calibrating itself to something other than 100% SoC and doing other strange things. Hopefully your battery pack was fully charged when you connected it.

3. Sounds like you have a PDS cart. I'm not sure what you mean the controller changing the voltage, but it supplies all the voltages to all the switches, the solenoid coil and the ITS (Inductive Throttle System) from the voltage applied to J1 Pins 4 and 5.

What it sends to the motor is actually PWM (Pulse width Modulated) DC and the number of amps the motor is allowed to draw is flow is determined by the duty cycle, but it appears as a varying voltage when measured with a voltmeter.

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I wouldn't mess with the factory wiring unless I had to.

[TXHop]

I have a 36V PDS cart. I went with the SOC meter before I read on here about the DVM. It came as a package with the wire harness and was factory. hindsight..
I installed it right after installing new batteries. I'm keeping it until I get the Control mod bug and add 2 more batteries.
Speaking of that I need to find a place to mount my converter that won't get in the way of 2 new batteries down the road. I thought about trying to find a place up under the dash to mount it. It's just a PITA to get to up there. I'm going to try and find room to mount the fuse block and converter in the existing fuse block location.

[JohnnieB]

Take your time and figure out what you want the end product to be and build towards that goal.

The nice thing about a PDS is that you can get up to about 24MPH @36V on stock height tires, just be replacing the stock controller with an aftermarket one that doesn't intentionally limit motor RPM.

Getting eight 6V batteries under the seat fairly simple with a PDS since there are no mechanical linkages involved, but you may have to move the controller and solenoid into the space above the motor, which is also a place to mount the converter.

I'm lazy, so I only used seven 6V batteries and didn't have to move anything.

Kidding aside, my goal was a 30+ mile range and I got that, and then some, with seven 245AH batteries so I didn't need to go to 48V.

My max sustainable speed was 28MPH when I was running a stock motor at 42V through a DCX400 controller. It is about the same now, but I have a lot more torque.

[TXHop]

Mission Accomplished! Got everything hook up the other night just in time to go cruise and see the christmas lights in the hood. I bought a heater and cover as well.

[remac]

Looks like you had your own little mobile Christmas light show on the inside.