Manual for 1998 EZGO Electric

[Handyman68]

Hi,
I have just acquired a 1998 EZGO Electric Series Cart. Unfortunately,it does not run. I am trying to diagnose the problem and would really like to have a service manual for the cart. I have found some links to Jacobson, but can not link to a manual there. I am probably doing something wrong, but can someone help me locate one, or give me a link to the manual for this cart? I appreciate any help.

[yurtle]

Links:

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

Golf Cart Serial Number Lookup:

http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

Controller/Motor Type:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...go-guide-2.jpg
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

[JohnnieB]

EZGO didn't re-invent the wheel every year like the auto makers did, so a later year or earlier year service manual will provide the information needed to troubleshoot the drive system.

The first two troubleshooting questions are:
What is the battery pack voltage?
Does the solenoid click?

[Handyman68]

Thank you all for the responses. They were very much appreciated. I will printout the information to have as reference when I am working on the cart. As to the question, concerning voltage and the solenoid, here is the status. I have 36.2 volts from the batteries. The solenoid clicks when I put the cart in forward or reverse, (with key on) and again when I press the accelerator pedal down about 1/3 to 1/2 way.

To provide a little background on the cart, I just purchased it from a neighbor. They said it worked fine when they last used it about a year ago. Since that time, it has sat in their open carport unused. I charged the batteries and then found there was no current through the ignition switch. That proved to be a bad connection on the key switch. I repaired the connection and the cart immediately ran, but then made a clunk and stopped after only about 25 feet. The cart was in reverse when it stopped. I started trying to find the problem, but I did not have a manual to use at that time. I knew solenoids take a real beating and are not an expensive item, so as an attempt to repair the cart, I replaced the solenoid. That did not fix the problem. Where I am now is the solenoid clicks when I put the cart in either forward or reverse and again when I press the accelerator down about 1/3 to 1/2 pedal. I have done the simple things I could verify with my VOM. As example, I verified reed switch works in charger receptacle, verified micro switch in pedal box worked, I verified readings between motor terminals with all wires disconnected (I found a location that stated which terminals should have continuity between them and which should not). If I have done these things correctly, I think I am down to the problem is either the controller or the FNR switch. I of course am afraid it is the controller, but I did not understand what would have killed it that fast, when I moved the cart. If that is the problem, perhaps it had condensation inside of it that caused an arc when voltage was applied. It is an EZGO controller and I have attempted to open it to look inside, but can find no way to remove the cover - short of getting a very big hammer. Anyway, that is where I am with the diagnostics. I am new to repairing electric carts and would greatly appreciate any guidance I can receive. Thanks in advance and I apologize for the long message. I just thought it might help to know exactly what had occurred to this point.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Handyman68

I will printout the information to have as reference when I am working on the cart.

As an alternate to printing info on parts you may never touch, you could maybe consider just dragging a laptop or tablet to your garage when you need to.

[yurtle]

If it sat for a year without ever being charged, the batteries could be shot. Stock chargers need to be unplugged and replugged from the cart monthly. Batteries self discharge and must be kept as "full" as possible.

Go to Trojan's website for good info and vids. Also go to http://www.cartsunlimited.net/ and read everything about batteries.

[Handyman68]

After going through flow chart on the troubleshooting guide, it appears the controller is bad. I will order a new one today. That said, I would still like to see what went wrong with the old one. I am use to repairing radios, power supplies, etc., so it might be possible to repair the old one as a spare. Does anyone know how to remove the cover from an old EZGO controller, without destroying the unit. I can see 4 screws set from the inside into the backplate, but of course you can't get to them without removing the cover. I assume they are holding the circuit board to the backplate. Is there a trick to releasing, or removing the cover, other than cutting it off with a dremel tool? Thanks for the information.

[Great white north]

I agree with yurtle the batteries could be the weak link here
Cheers !

[Handyman68]

I will check each battery individually, disconnected from the string, to be sure there is not a weak one hiding out. In series they test as a group slightly above 36v. Anybody ever take a cover off of an EZGO controller? Is there a way to release the cover without cutting it off? By the way yurtle, I see you are in Buford, GA. I use to live in Suwanee, GA just down the road from you. Retired and moved to the mountains of N GA - Ellijay area. Anyway, thanks for the advice on checking the batteries.

[remac]

If you're just checking voltage, you don't need to disconnect batteries from each other.
You can even check them while cart is moving to get a reading called 'voltage under load'. Its just harder to connect the DVM.
Your batteries can drop to 4.5 volts under load, but never lower.
The under load voltage should be similar for all batteries.
If you have one that drops lower than others under similar loads,
then it is probably not good.