2013 txt 48 volt

[sonnysmith]

CG tech


I have not got the solenoid to click at all. I tried to jump pack neg. to one side of solenoid ( blue wire) the wire coming from the controller and had a bad spark and the solenoid did not click. I may have made a mistake, but I've done it lots of times to check the operation of the solenoid. I will not do any more till I find out a lot more about the carts electrical system. As I posted to the thread the voltage was at all the right place, as per JohnnieB ,I think.

Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks all

[JohnnieB]

One more place to check.

You've said you have pack voltage on Pins 6, 8, 9 & 10, so we know the Pedal is pushed, the FNR selector is in F, the key is ON and the Run/Tow switch is in Run.

You also said the there is pack voltage on both the yellow wire and the blue wire that connect to the solenoid's small (coil) terminals.

Now we have to verify that there is pack voltage on Pin-5.

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If it does have pack voltage, I strongly suspect the controller is bad.

However, that speculation is solely based on what I can see on the schematic and wiring diagram, and general knowledge about how 36V PDS controllers work.

Getting the solenoid to click is a two step process.
First you have to get pack voltage to one side of the coil (yellow wire) and then you have to connect the other side of the coil (blue wire) to the negative terminal to complete the circuit.

There is pack voltage on the yellow wire, so the needed preconditions are being met.
There is also pack voltage on the blue wire, which tells us the solenoid's coil is intact.
The controller is supposed to connecting the blue wire to the negative terminal of the battery pack when the pedal switch applies pack voltage to Pin-6, but the controller isn't doing it, so the controller is not doing what it is being told to do.

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What I would do at this point is either take the cart to a cart tech that has the handheld device to check the controller, or ship the controller to FSIP and get them to check it out.

[sonnysmith]

Thanks JohnnieB I will check on pin 5 today. Now one more question, why would I get a large spark when pack neg. is applied to the other side of the solenoid (blue) wire ?? I would think the solenoid should just close. Maybe one of the wiring differences.

Thanks
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

The initial amp draw by the solenoid coil is many times the run amps, so you'll get a pretty good spark. Especially if you just tap the connector to the terminal, or did it tentatively.

For example: The run amps for the solenoid I use is 0.1A while the initial amps is 3.5A. I've never tried to activate it with jumper wires, but I'm pretty sure the 3.5A starting current would cause a a significant spark.


You solenoid might be messed up mechanically so it cannot close, or maybe the voltage wasn't applied long enough for it to close, but you had pack voltage on both the yellow and blues wires, so the coil is intact electrically.

If the controller was doing what it is being told to do, the voltage on the blue wire would drop to zero when the pedal is pushed.

The only thing I wasn't sure about was what the voltage on Pin-5 ought to be and GC says it is supposed to be pack voltage when the charger is not plugged into the cart. If Pin-5 doesn't have pack voltage on it, the controller is disabled and will not energize the solenoid.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB I just checked pin 5 and it has 37.1 volts. with out peddle being pushed and no change when it is pushed. Not sure what this means.

Thanks

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB while looking at wiring diagrams there is a difference in Sottys and the one you posted. one has two open spaces on the plug in the other has only one. Not sure if there is different controller or not. Or if it makes any difference. The cart is a 2010 not a 2013 that was my fault for not checking closer. I was told they are the same. Just not sure.

thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB I just checked pin 5 and it has 37.1 volts. with out peddle being pushed and no change when it is pushed. Not sure what this means.

Thanks

Pin-5 goes low when the charger is plugged into cart, other wise it is at pack voltage.

Pin-6 is the pedal switch input to the controller. It has pack voltage when pedal is pushed and no voltage when pedal is up.

Pin-12 is the blue wire going to solenoid coil. It should go low when pedal is pushed and other pre-conditions met --- Charger disconnected from cart. Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch ON and either F or R selected)

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From what I can tell, the controller is bad.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Does anyone have a test procedure for the new txt 48 volt ez go?? when you don't have a hand held computer. I have looked at the wiring diagram and it look like it might not be too hard. But I need a JohnnieB to tell me where to place the leads and just how much you can test with this method. I just bought one and the solenoid will not click. Don't know how to check controller. Jump neg to one side of solenoid and it clicks. So I need more direction.

Thanks all
Sonny

You say you made it click, then you say it has never clicked! I cant help both of your conflicting stories.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

CG tech


I have not got the solenoid to click at all. I tried to jump pack neg. to one side of solenoid ( blue wire) the wire coming from the controller and had a bad spark and the solenoid did not click. I may have made a mistake, but I've done it lots of times to check the operation of the solenoid. I will not do any more till I find out a lot more about the carts electrical system. As I posted to the thread the voltage was at all the right place, as per JohnnieB ,I think.

Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks all

Confused is right.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB while looking at wiring diagrams there is a difference in Sottys and the one you posted. one has two open spaces on the plug in the other has only one. Not sure if there is different controller or not. Or if it makes any difference. The cart is a 2010 not a 2013 that was my fault for not checking closer. I was told they are the same. Just not sure.

thanks

Good catch.

Actually, there are three open spaces on the wiring diagram I posted, Pins 3, 4 & 11, while only Pin-3 is open on the schematic diagram Scotty posted.

Note that the wires attached to Pins 4 & 11 on the schematic are dotted lines, so they may or may not exist or your cart, and most likely don't because they are not shown on the wiring diagram.