36v TXT in limp mode after towing

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Levelwings

I’m getting continuous buzzer in forward and reverse with key on and off.

Return wire from beeper shorted to B- or bad controller.

Originally Posted by Levelwings

J1 pin 4 failed test.

Check reed switch.

Originally Posted by Levelwings

Red wire from charger receptical has pack voltage. Center wire on f/r switch has pack voltage.

If there is pack voltage on F/R center terminal, reed switch is good and J1 Pin-4 has pack voltage on it.

Attached is diagram showing voltage paths through PDS controller.

[Levelwings]

How would the return wire from beeper be shorted to B-?


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[Levelwings]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Return wire from beeper shorted to B- or bad controller.



Check reed switch.



If there is pack voltage on F/R center terminal, reed switch is good and J1 Pin-4 has pack voltage on it.



Attached is diagram showing voltage paths through PDS controller.

Would it be shorted inside the controller?


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Levelwings

How would the return wire from beeper be shorted to B-?


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The beeper has pack voltage applied to it 100% of the time, red wire attached the solenoid's battery side large terminal, same source as J1 Pin-5. If there is a bare spot in the wire on the other side (the wire that goes to J1 Pin-10) that is touching the cart's frame, it will most likely sound the beeper.

The frame is not supposed to be grounded (B-), but phantom current paths exist in just about every cart and it only take a few micro-amps to make beeper sound.

Of course, the most likely suspect is a bad beeper circuitry in the controller.

[Levelwings]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The beeper has pack voltage applied to it 100% of the time, red wire attached the solenoid's battery side large terminal, same source as J1 Pin-5. If there is a bare spot in the wire on the other side (the wire that goes to J1 Pin-10) that is touching the cart's frame, it will most likely sound the beeper.

The frame is not supposed to be grounded (B-), but phantom current paths exist in just about every cart and it only take a few micro-amps to make beeper sound.

Of course, the most likely suspect is a bad beeper circuitry in the controller.

Would bad beeper circuitry or a bare spot in the J1 pin 10 wire cause the cart not to move in F or R?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Levelwings

Would bad beeper circuitry or a bare spot in the J1 pin 10 wire cause the cart not to move in F or R?

No, probably not.

The voltage on the pins I mentioned earlier, tell the controller to pass amps to the motor. If it doesn't do what it is being told to do, it is bad.

[Levelwings]

They sent me two controllers by mistake, so I have tried both. One has the beeper issue and neither will make it go. FWIW the ones they sent are Master Drive 350amp controllers.


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[yurtle]

Do either of them have an LED for error codes, or do they have a diagnostic mode for beep codes? You may have to Google or contact the seller.

[Levelwings]

Yes in diagnostic mode I get 3-1 beep


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[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Levelwings

Yes in diagnostic mode I get 3-1 beep


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Do both have the same code? One thing it says is "check coil winding for shorts". Can you check your solenoid without the diode?