Here's hoping this will find the eyes & big brains of Loud & Lifted and SpoiledRotten

[BuggyGoodie]

Stuff you all like:
EZ-GO TXT DCS Drive...“Series” 2000 1/2 ... D400 (Year 2000 but with a roof handle) .... 1.49kW ... Speed Controller just replaced... Solenoid new a year old but light use....Two new batteries, 6.4 and 6.4 after careful trickle. ... Motor original....FNR Switch Assy replaced about a year ago. Cart clicks and doesn't move.
All batteries measure at least 6.1 by Schumacher 100A. System measures 25.7V.
All batteries report good under load by a Tester made in Philippines (Oh, shut up) just like the new batteries.
Now, I learned from like SpoiledRotten about the structure of 6 Volt batteries, i.e., a series of 2 Volt cells. And someone whom I should credit said that even a weak battery can cause a click w/ no movement. On the old batteries, the Schumacher stalls at 78% charge.
Does this indicate a dead cell in the old batteries even thought they report at least 6.1 each?
Thank you in advance for the considerable help. (Frankly, a week ago I shot the thing. Then I thought the best course was a three-day drunk. When I woke up, I saw the bullet hole and remembered. I didn't even hit one battery. [Embarrasing]. So, equipped with no memory, I am back here and the wife is using mine. )

[bronsonj]

Full pack measures 25.7v? That's way too low for a 36v cart (assuming it's 36v and not 48v). But either way it's too low.

[BuggyGoodie]

Thank you very much, bronsonj.
Update, if you please.
6 new batteries: Zero hours. To your point, analog reading is now like 40VDc.
Solenoid: Zero hours.
Controller: About 4 hours.
Result: Click.
Motor not checked since you smart folks say that generally motors are solid. (This one is 19 years old.)
Thank you very much again for taking out the time and applying your expertise.

[JohnnieB]

If the solenoid clicks, the problem is in the high current circuit.

Connect your voltmeter between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you should read the same voltage that is measured between the main negative and main positive battery pack terminals.

If not, leave the negative test lead on the controller's B- terminal and go looking for the missing voltage with the positive test lead. Attached is a schematic with the high current cables highlighted.

[BuggyGoodie]

Well, I'll be.
Oh, no, it isn't working yet, but:
1. I understand more.
(I don't know no B from M. I don't know how to read no electric schematic. Hydraulic schematic from 40 years ago? Yes. Network diagram from 20 years ago in Silicon Valley? Yes. ) But you have helped me begin to trace the problem and now I know that B and M did not perform as you suggested they should but that when the pedal is depressed the red side of the solenoid does read full voltage.
2. You have helped me personally as everyone should understand. Thanks to you, I will be better equipped to articulate my findings in the future.
In short, Thank You.

[BuggyGoodie]

OK, I've begun doing as you directed, Professor. So far I have this. (My notes are in purple.)

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by BuggyGoodie

OK, I've begun doing as you directed, Professor. So far I have this. (My notes are in purple.)

The places you show as ON should require key on AND throttle depressed. I assume that is what you meant there.

Do what JB said, with negative probe connected to B-, key on, pedal down, F/R switch in Forward, follow the circuit diagram and you should see pack voltage at controller B+, F/R Switch A, B, C, D, Motor A1, A2, S1, S2, and Controller M-. The point in the circuit where you stop getting pack voltage will indicate where the problem is. I could not tell based on your diagram, where that point was.

[BuggyGoodie]

Thank you, again.
Results of your test:
M- Connected
M+ = NO
A = YES
B = YES
C = NO
D = YES
I returned to C. I pushed the Forward control lever further and measured full voltage. When I released, I received zero.
Pushing it further than normal and measuring M+, I received full voltage. But the cart did not move.
So, I will continue to the motor unless you all direct otherwise.
Thank you, again.
Your pupil.

[BuggyGoodie]

In the previous post, the terms "M-" and "M+" are meant to read "B-" and "B+".
Thank you.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BuggyGoodie

Thank you, again.
Results of your test:
M- Connected
M+ = NO
A = YES
B = YES
C = NO
D = YES
I returned to C. I pushed the Forward control lever further and measured full voltage. When I released, I received zero.
Pushing it further than normal and measuring M+, I received full voltage. But the cart did not move.
So, I will continue to the motor unless you all direct otherwise.
Thank you, again.
Your pupil.

Originally Posted by BuggyGoodie

In the previous post, the terms "M-" and "M+" are meant to read "B-" and "B+".
Thank you.

Looks like two problems.
1. Open contacts between the F/R switch's B and C studs.
2. Open cable from solenoid's controller side large terminal to controller's B+ terminal.