still no forward

[mebucko]

1999 EZGO 36V electric cart series motor.

Thanks for the help on this issue. After removing the F/R switch (brand new heavy duty) and testing it per instructions provided on this site, I verified it was functioning correctly. Re-installed, and manually operated the F/W switch so that it was against the stop in either direction. I still had reverse working, but no forward. All cables from F/W switch are good (good continuity).

I reversed the S1 and S2 leads at the motor, and now forward works with selector in reverse, but no reverse with selector in forward.

Motor issue?

[JohnnieB]

Your motor isn't the problem, it runs in both directions by swapping the S1 and S2 cables. The problem is in the F/R switch assembly.

If the solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed when F/R is in F or R, than the problem is the high amp contacts are not making contact when in the F position.

If the solenoid doesn't click in F, than the problem is MS-2 contacts not closing in F.

[mebucko]

Thanks. I tested 2 different F/R switches, one brand new, and one original to the cart, using a diagram provided from this site in another post. Each switch indicated continuity across the contacts when in forward, and in reverse.

I also removed each of the 4 cables from the F/R switch at both ends; they too read good continuity.

The solenoid does click for both forward and reverse.

I ordered new 4 amp motor wires non the less.

I have left off the shift rod, and am manually moving the F/R switch by hand until it reaches its stop for both forward and reverse, to rule out a mis-alignment of the F/R switch. Did this with both F/R switches. Only the reverse portion of both two switches I have tried will make the motor work in its reverse selection.

I have a third switch from a parts cart that I can try. Switch from that cart seems stiff to turn though.

Thanks for the help. At least I can go forward with this configuration using the selector in reverse.

[JohnnieB]

Solenoid clicks, so it the problem is in the high amp circuit.

Connect a DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals. Should be full battery pack voltage when [pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click and then decrease smoothly to zero volts as pedal is slowly pushed to floor.

If the solenoid has a pre-charge resistor installed, you read slightly less than full pack voltage when pedal is all the way up.

If you don't get pack volt, there is an open somewhere in the high amps circuit and the F/R switch is the most likely suspect.

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The mechanical F/R switches are hard to turn. If the center nut is too loose, the contacts won't make a good connection.