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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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07-29-2021, 10:28 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Greetings! this is my third cart build but first ezgo and first 36V. I picked up a 02 txt 36v series drive cart that's pretty rough but it cost me 300 bucks so why not. here's the deets.
theres no batteries or cables. The the charging harness is there. the f/r is there and appears to be entact but the cables from f/r are missing minus 1 (i think). the solenoid is gone and the bracket for it. The controller is there but i have no idea if it works or the harness for it. Lastly there are 4 wires coming from the front of the cart. assuming these are for key switch thats missing and meter but unsure. Im mainly trying to get references as to what i need to get to replace missing or broken items. So far I ordered 2awg cables. 13 cables total. 36v solenoid, key switch. im worried im missing something. any advice or photos. im terrible at diagrams but i can read them. didnt see any in the stickys. Thanks in advance. |
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07-29-2021, 10:34 AM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
pictures for reference.
225682817_1650617711801783_5323624669618322209_n.jpg 222454074_856211875331000_2405353074154092990_n.jpg 222977963_369145108053852_7691102813703250348_n.jpg |
07-29-2021, 10:45 AM | #3 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Here's schematic for the series drive system.
It has a 4 terminal controller, but the 3 terminal is the same except for the cable from the controller's A2 terminal, which doesn't exist on the 3 terminal controller, to the C stud on the F/R switch assembly. |
08-02-2021, 11:29 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Okay. So here’s the first update. I was able to check the motor and it does work. Cables should be in today and I can wire everything up. However…. When I took the controller off it sounds like there’s material rattling around. Assuming this is corrosion. Does this mean the controller is shot? I was hoping to avoid upgrading to a bigger/better controller.
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08-02-2021, 01:40 PM | #5 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Probably.
Take the case off, it is removable, and see what's loose. |
08-03-2021, 07:42 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
I will be doing that today. saw a video on how NOT to remove the cover. a Guy down the road from me has a refurbished curtis that's 400 amps. asking 300 bucks. If i cant get this one to work, is that a decent option. if i had planned on keeping it Id go ahead and invest in a nicer motor and controller but this is supposed to be a flip and practicing my skills.
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08-03-2021, 10:19 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Update….opened and cleaned out the controller. It was pretty rough inside and might need to be replaced but unsure yet. Hooked up all my 2awg wires to batteries and the motor to the f/r. I’m trying to follow the diagram and have a few more questions bc it’s still not moving.
1. The harness that connects to the controller has the red wire cut. However, the red wire has a terminal loop and the diagram makes me think it goes to the solenoid and from solenoid back to the harness but I’m unsure. 2. Had this reading before I fixed small wiring but I had a reading of 25v coming from the b+ and B- of the controller. 3. Purchased a resistor but forgot the diode. So my understanding is the diode goes to the to angled prongs of the solenoid and the resistor goes from the input and output of the positive? |
08-06-2021, 01:48 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
I need help!!!!I’m lost in the sauce. I’ve reviewed the diagram so many times and I just can’t figure it out.
BP has 37.5v I’ve wired it as the diagram shows. My concerned areas are 1) does it matter if the solenoid is upside down? 2) red wire from harness is attached to little solenoid stud and the a second red wire is also on same stud and wired back into 6 pen connector and plugged in. Is this right? 3) I have 35Vs when metered between the b+ and b- instead of almost 0v as I’ve read. However, with pedal engaged it is 37.5 like the battery pack. This seemed to be the only inconsistency with the trouble shooting instructions. Everything else read like it should. 4) I can hear the motor when pedal is engaged and I can see the tires trying to move but don’t. I undid the break lines and still the same. I thought maybe the pads were frozen. I spun the tire by hand for a bit and hit the pedal and the tires began started moving at full speed. However, let off and they slowed back down and wouldn’t turn on their own. Tried it again, tires move 4-5 rotations but slow down and eventually stop even though pedal is engaged. What should I try? |
08-06-2021, 01:17 PM | #9 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
Quote:
2. Yes. 3. If there is a resistor installed between the two large terminals, then you will get a few volts less than the battery pack voltage between the controller's B- and B+ terminals at all times. 4. Sounds like stripped splines in one or both rear hubs. Remove all wheel covers and hub caps so castle nuts are visible. Have someone watch the castle nuts while cart is trying to move. If castle nut turns, but drum doesn't the splines are stripped. Only take one stripped hub to disable cart. |
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08-06-2021, 02:15 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 68
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Re: 02 txt 36V series wiring hardware advice
i'll try that out to see if the castle nuts move but ive had both hubs off and the splines seem fine i put some greese on them and buttoned them back up. someone suggested i may have brush issues.
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