EZGO works one day, and doesn't the next

[XCOP1152]

Originally Posted by DaveTM

If you don’t hear the solenoid click, that would be my first suspect. The solenoid should click when you press the go peddle. A Multimeter is a must have tool when you have an electric cart. Check the voltage cross the large nuts with key on and cart just sitting there. Then check the same when the go peddle is slightly pressed.

Across the solenoid with the key on I get nothing. With the key on and the go pedal pressed I get 37ish volts. The cart IS working this morning. If it stops working I will measure again.

[XCOP1152]

Originally Posted by Cmartin2001

im a new guy to the forum so feel free to let what i say go in one ear and out the other but i have experience with a taylor dunn cart that we used as a maintenance vehicle. for months it would work intermittently . since it was a company vehicle we did minimal trouble shooting and just threw parts at it when we had time. we replaced batteries,cables,ignition,throttle pedal,motor. the cart had nearly been rebuilt short of the controller and solenoid and still had problems. you could take off out of the shop to go to a job and have to get pushed back. you could let off going around a turn and have no throttle when you push it down next. the culprit was the solenoid. it was a sealed unit. i had to drill out the rivets to actually see where the problem was but a control wire inside leading to the coil was broken but touching occasionally. maybe a continuity check while bumping the solenoid around might show theres an occasional open. or next time its not working push the pedal down and give the solenoid a tap and see if it takes off.

Thanks for the reply. I need all the help I can get. Unfortunately, the cart IS working this morning. I am getting 37 volts across the solenoid with the key on and the go pedal pressed slightly.

While I am waiting for it to stop working I am going to familiarize myself with the troubleshooting steps in the manual, and take some voltage readings.

I almost hope it is the solenoid because it looks easy to replace. I will try your suggestion also.

Thanks again.

[XCOP1152]

I meant to mention in my replies today there is NO CLICK coming from the solenoid. No sound at all. The cart IS working at the moment, and there is no click coming from the solenoid.

There is 37 volts across the solenoid with the key on and the go pedal pressed. There is no voltage at all across the solenoid otherwise.

[MacGyverr]

Your battery cable going to you solenoid looks bad. You should have voltage on both sides of the solenoid all the time, your resistor is bad, I'd replace the solenoid the resistor, battery cables and the diode.

[XCOP1152]

Running through the troubleshooting process today.

Reference voltage is 37.7 volts.

Switch continuity is good.

SOLENOID CONTINUITY TEST FAILED. I have continuity across the large posts of the solenoid with the B+ battery disconnected.

….but the cart IS running this morning. Is this possible?

[XCOP1152]

Originally Posted by MacGyverr

Your battery cable going to you solenoid looks bad. You should have voltage on both sides of the solenoid all the time, your resistor is bad, I'd replace the solenoid the resistor, battery cables and the diode.

Thanks for your time. I have continuity across the large posts of the solenoid with the battery B+ disconnected. According to the manual this indicates the solenoid is welded, and needs to be replaced. Also, I do have 37 volts across the small terminals of the solenoid (when battery is connected).

The cart IS running today.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by XCOP1152

I meant to mention in my replies today there is NO CLICK coming from the solenoid. No sound at all. The cart IS working at the moment, and there is no click coming from the solenoid.

There is 37 volts across the solenoid with the key on and the go pedal pressed. There is no voltage at all across the solenoid otherwise.

That suggests the solenoid contacts may be welded together and you may not hear a click. Welded contacts may not keep this cart from working. Before you start the trouble shooting chart diagnosis routine suggest you make this measurement. While the cart is in working mode measure the voltage between pins 1 and 2 (black and white wires) on the six pin connector on top of the controller as you press the pedal. This is the signal coming from the Inductive throttle sensor (ITS) through the Molex connector and wiring that was originally suspect. You should measure around 2.5 volts no pedal and increase as pedal is pressed. When the cart is not working repeat this measurement. It is hard to troubleshoot for this intermittent problem when the cart is working.
My first cart was very similar to yours. I had the same symptoms as you are having. This is why I came for help here on BGY forums 8 years ago. My problem proved to be the Molex connector was corroded and the ITS proved intermitter. That old cart was a real work horse when it was working.

[XCOP1152]

Continuing on with step one through 22 indicates that the solenoid is bad also.

My reference voltage, battery B- to B+, is 37.7 V.

Voltage between battery B- and battery-side of the solenoid is 37.7 V.

The voltage between battery B minus and controller side of the solenoid was also 37.7 volts, the same as the reference voltage.

According to the troubleshooting flow charge this also indicates the solenoid is welded.

I am working now to sleep with solenoid to buy, and where to buy it. I will also replace the diode in the resistor.

Depending on local availability this may NOT be today. I may have to order the parts.

If I am headed off in the wrong direction here please let me know. Thank you all.

[XCOP1152]

Originally Posted by radioman

That suggests the solenoid contacts may be welded together and you may not hear a click. Welded contacts may not keep this cart from working. Before you start the trouble shooting chart diagnosis routine suggest you make this measurement. While the cart is in working mode measure the voltage between pins 1 and 2 (black and white wires) on the six pin connector on top of the controller as you press the pedal. This is the signal coming from the Inductive throttle sensor (ITS) through the Molex connector and wiring that was originally suspect. You should measure around 2.5 volts no pedal and increase as pedal is pressed. When the cart is not working repeat this measurement. It is hard to troubleshoot for this intermittent problem when the cart is working.
My first cart was very similar to yours. I had the same symptoms as you are having. This is why I came for help here on BGY forums 8 years ago. My problem proved to be the Molex connector was corroded and the ITS proved intermitter. That old cart was a real work horse when it was working.

Thank you for your response. The cart IS currently working. I do have 2.5 volts between pin one and two with the key on when NOT pressing the pedal. When I do press the pedal the voltage jumps immediately to 13 Volts, and appears to continue upward as I continue pressing the pedal.

I will test again when cart is not working.

Edit- corrected wording

[XCOP1152]

Originally Posted by radioman

That suggests the solenoid contacts may be welded together and you may not hear a click. Welded contacts may not keep this cart from working. Before you start the trouble shooting chart diagnosis routine suggest you make this measurement. While the cart is in working mode measure the voltage between pins 1 and 2 (black and white wires) on the six pin connector on top of the controller as you press the pedal. This is the signal coming from the Inductive throttle sensor (ITS) through the Molex connector and wiring that was originally suspect. You should measure around 2.5 volts no pedal and increase as pedal is pressed. When the cart is not working repeat this measurement. It is hard to troubleshoot for this intermittent problem when the cart is working.
My first cart was very similar to yours. I had the same symptoms as you are having. This is why I came for help here on BGY forums 8 years ago. My problem proved to be the Molex connector was corroded and the ITS proved intermitter. That old cart was a real work horse when it was working.

I know this is getting to be a long thread, but yesterday I posted that I had eliminated the Molex connector, and replaced it with butt-splices and heat shrink. I also included a picture in that post.

The golf cart did not run yesterday, and after I replaced the Molex connector it still did not run…but it worked fine this morning, and is still working. Very difficult to troubleshoot indeed.