$25 Windows 10 x64 OEM mode 1314 and DIY Cable

[ishootstuff]

I'm hoping I can make this really simple and fully inclusive in one post. I did a lot of searching and there is so much conflicting information. Here is how I did it.



First, you have to get the parts.

You need a genuine FTDI chip usb to 5v TTL UART serial cable. I got mine on Amazon for $19.99. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You also need a 4 pin Molex. I ordered the wrong one, but chopped it up and made it work. This will work - https://www.amazon.com/CPU-Power-Cab...ords=4+pin+ATX

To build the cable, connect USB ends as follows; black to pin 2, yellow to 3 and orange to 1. Pin 4 is not connected to anything, and the other colors from the USB end are also left unterminated. I hadn't planned on documenting, so this is the only picture of the unfinished cable. Forgive my soldering skills, they have not been the same since the brain tumor was removed.





You'll need to do some reprogramming of the FTDI chip which is why you need a genuine one. To do that, you need FT_Prog. You can get it HERE or google for yourself.

Plug in your cable and launch FT_Prog. Hit F5 and you should see some device information. Click on USB Device Descriptor and change the values as shown in the picture below.



Expand Hardware Specific and click on Invert RS232 Signals. Check the boxes for Invert TXD and Invert RXD as shown below.



Before you continue to the next step, if you don't have the Curtis 1309 USB drivers available, you will lose connection to this cable from FT_Prog because Windows will not have the drivers available for the vendor and device ID's were about to burn into the chip.

You can recover from this, but involves disabling driver signing and altering .inf files and I don't want to walk you through it, so don't ask.

In FT_Prog, hit CTRL-P or choose "Program" from the devices menu. If you unplug the cable and plug it back in, it will be a different device. If the drivers didn't install, manually install them and point Windows to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Curtis Instruments\1314-4402 PC Programming Station\1309 USB Driver"

The software that works for me is 1314-4401 Version 3.12 build 33 Update Patch 2. I found plenty of threads on where to get software, I'm pretty sure I got mine from here https://ev.forumchitchat.com/post/13...4105?&trail=25. It only works for me when I used COM4, so you may need to configure that in device manager. If COM4 isn't available, you may have to delete ghost COM ports in device manager. To do this, you'll need to choose "Show hidden devices" from the View menu in Device Manager.

Also, configure advanced port settings so the Latency Timer is set to 2ms.

first photo did not work

[ishootstuff]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

first photo did not work

Thank you. I had too many attachments. I hosted offsite.

[kgsc]

Just to clairify, the pin layout for the molex plug, is that view from the wire side or the connection side ? If I had one in my hands I could probably figure it out but wasn't sure. Thanks for the post btw As soon as I can get the nephew with amazon prime up will probably order a few parts unless you offer a building fee option for the minions ??

[ishootstuff]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Just to clairify, the pin layout for the molex plug, is that view from the wire side or the connection side ? If I had one in my hands I could probably figure it out but wasn't sure. Thanks for the post btw As soon as I can get the nephew with amazon prime up will probably order a few parts unless you offer a building fee option for the minions ??

It's looking at the back of the plug, like if you cut the plug out of a computer. If you look at the picture with my horrible soldering, it is hooked up properly. The two yellow wires are the top of the plug. I should have specified. I seem to have lost the ability to edit my first post already.

I was thinking about building some cables and putting them on ebay. I bought my first one off ebay and it was $60 and took forever to get here. Then I moved across country and lost it - and so much more...

If there is some interest, I'll make a few, but I haven't yet read the forum policy on posting links or selling. I'd probably do $50 shipped.

[ishootstuff]

Attached is a template to program your cable. It contains the vendor and hardware ID's, USB string descriptions, and the inverted RX\TX. Just open FT_Prog and from the File menu, choose Open Template.

FYI, if the USB end of the cable hits the positive terminal of your battery, it may fry the cable and the interface to your controller. Your controller may still work, but you may get a checksum error when trying to program it. Maybe...

[ishootstuff]

For those of you that don't want to build one, I put one on ebay. It's $5 cheaper than the other one on ebay and it will come to you much faster.

[spoiler1041]

Originally Posted by ishootstuff

Attached is a template to program your cable. It contains the vendor and hardware ID's, USB string descriptions, and the inverted RX\TX. Just open FT_Prog and from the File menu, choose Open Template.

FYI, if the USB end of the cable hits the positive terminal of your battery, it may fry the cable and the interface to your controller. Your controller may still work, but you may get a checksum error when trying to program it. Maybe...

Hope ya still read this thread......

Are the drivers installed on pc when curtis software is installed? If not, where do ya get them? I don't have the directory you outlined).

[kgsc]

Mine were there once I had installed the software. The cable described in this thread needs some tweaks to get it past OEM level..

[ishootstuff]

Originally Posted by spoiler1041

Hope ya still read this thread......

Are the drivers installed on pc when curtis software is installed? If not, where do ya get them? I don't have the directory you outlined).

Like kgsc said. The drivers install with the Curtis software.

I don't understand what kgsc means by the cable needs tweaks to get past OEM level. The "tweaking" is on the computer, not the cable.