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Old 07-25-2016, 01:10 PM   #21
bigstik40
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonic405 View Post
Thanks for all your help. On the other side of the fuse is where I am losing power. The wire that goes from the other side of the fuse ends at the reverse switch and this is the first spot I lose the voltage. I have changed fuses multiple times. Like I said before, I have continuity on the wire that goes from the other side of the fuse to the reverse switch. Could this wire possibly be shorting out?
A short in the red wire would blow the fuse, so I don't think that is it. It really seems like something is restricting current in the red wire between fuse and key switch.

You say you bypassed the red wire! How? Did you just sub a wire between the fuse and reverse switch?? If so, that leaves the wire between rev. switch and key switch as a suspect. You also should try subbing the wire between the fuse and key switch hot terminal. Also, bypass the key switch by subbing the wire from fuse to the brown wire (the other side of the key switch). I really think you are going to find a poor or corroded connection somewhere in the red wire from fuse to the key switch/rev sw splice. Looking at the wiring, I see a splice in the red wire with one branch going to the key sw and one branch going to rev sw.I think you will find the problem in the red wire somewhere before the splice (not sure how they actually make that splice). A real stumper!! - RAY

PS - FWIW, I once had an car where the alternator quit. Long story short, the +12 volt wire feeding it had a pinhole in the insulation. Upon closer examination the copper inside the wire was blue and completely corroded through.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:21 PM   #22
tonic405
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

If there was a problem in that red wire going to the key switch, could it still be showing continuity? I am getting continuity from the fuse to both the reverse switch and the key switch. I took out all the bypasses and everything is back to original. The voltage going to the key switch is 12 volts. When I step on the pedal, it drops. So, I bypassed the key switch. When I check the voltage, it still drops when I step on the pedal. So I know the switch isn't causing it. I guess I am just dragging my feet about cutting into this wiring harness, but it looks like that's what I'm going to have to do.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:08 PM   #23
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

OK, so we can assume both switches are ok. I don't remember, did you have full voltage on both sides of the fuse (at the fuse)??

We know the voltage drops when checking at the key switch and rev sw., correct???

A drop in the voltage on the wire, when trying to draw current, will be caused by resistance in the wire somewhere.

So, if you follow the red wire from the fuse toward the key switch/ rev sw., at some point, you should come up with a spot in the wire where the voltage on the wire has dropped. At that point you should have the problem.

I think you will need to cut into the portion of the harness that contains the red wire. I would be suspicious of the spot where the red wire splits and goes in two directions (possibly a factory splice??).

Good luck - (Let me know what you find) - RAY
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:40 AM   #24
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

I wanted you to see this picture. You see the piece I am holding at the bottom. This is the key switch plug. This is how they spliced to the reverse switch which you see toward the top of the picture. After taking the tape off, I don't see any place where the wire is worn or corroded. It got me looking somewhere else. Could the problem be the voltage regulator? I thought I had checked this side really good, but maybe not. I get 12v to the regulator. I get 12v at both the r/w and green wires, but the brown wire is showing...you guessed it 2v.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:03 PM   #25
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

[QUOTE=tonic405; I get 12v to the regulator. I get 12v at both the r/w and green wires, but the brown wire is showing...you guessed it 2v.[/QUOTE]

I thought you said before that you had the low voltage on the red wire, which would also make the low voltage appear on the brown wire to the key switch and red wire to the solenoid. The r/w wire connects to the red wire from accel. sw, so that also should have the low voltage on it.

Please confirm what the voltage is on the brown wire from the key sw and the R/W wires with both switches picked up.

The voltage regulator is receiving voltage, not supplying, so I don't know about that causing your problem. You could disconnect the regulator to eliminate it as a cause of the problem. The G9 is the only year that uses a 4 wire VR and I don't have a clue how that brown wire connects internally in the VR.

RAY
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:47 PM   #26
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

Yeah, you are correct that all the wires to and from the key switch, the reverse switch, the pedal switch and solenoid all show low voltage when the pedal is pushed. The r/w, green and brown wires I was referring to in my last post were all concerning the voltage regulator. The black wire goes from the battery to a fuse to the regulator. From there, the r/w and green wires go directly to the starter generator and the brown wire goes to the solenoid. Everything here shows 12v except the brown wire coming out of the regulator. I really can't tell you have much I have appreciated all you have done for me in coming back and posting and posting trying to help me with this.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:52 PM   #27
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

Interesting that my wiring diagram does not show a fuse from bat - to the regulator!!! I only show the one from pos to switches. You should also check that fuse. (ground fuse blown can cause strange problems !)

Anyhow, the fact that you get 12 volts on the voltage regulator (exc for the brown) is strange because those are fed from the ignition switch thru the accel switch, and that is where you get the 2 volt reading.

You should take voltage readings, like I indicated previously in post 13. That is: meter negative on batt minus, then work your way along the red wire with voltage readings until you encounter the low voltage. Get the following voltage readings with key sw on and accel sw depressed (cart in neutral):
1. fuse hot side
2. fuse low side
3.red wire at splice
4.red wire at key switch
5. red wire at rev switch
6. brown wire at key switch
7. brown wire at accel sw
8.red wire at other side of accel sw
9.red wire at solenoid
(you can stop taking readings when the measured voltage is 2 volts)

That set of voltage readings should narrow down where the problem might be.

Did you try disconnecting the VR. Might as well leave it out when you get those voltages.

I can't believe you haven't found something amiss by now. Let me know - RAY

Last edited by bigstik40; 07-26-2016 at 06:59 PM.. Reason: clarify
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:26 PM   #28
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

I know the diagram doesn't show the fuse, but this thing has it. Yes, it has been checked many times. But here are the readings I just took. They are different from before and climb and that's new.
So I wanted to show this picture. This shows how the red wire goes to the fuse. The larger wire comes from the battery and the smaller one connects here. This smaller one is the one that goes to the fuse. So, it actually doesn't go directly from the battery, it is routed from the connector on the solenoid. At this point both connected to the solenoid and disconnected, I get 12v (actually 12.4) when I hit the pedal, it drops to 4.4 and begins to climb. I held this reading for a little while and it was still climbing when I let it go. It got up to 8v. At the hot side of the fuse, at the low side of the fuse, at the splice, at the key switch, at the rev switch, at the brown at the key switch, I get 12v and when I push the pedal, it drops and then begins to climb. At the brown wire at the accel switch, I only get the 12 and at the r/w wire at the accel switch, I get 12. Over at the solenoid, I get 0 until I hit the pedal and then I get the 4.4 and it begins to climb.
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:33 PM   #29
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

Your voltage measurements would indicate to me that there is something going on with the heavy cable from the battery positive. I know you said you cleaned the battery terminals, but the crimp connection in the battery clamp may be bad or there may be a heavy build up of black corrosion inside the battery clamp. (Cgtech has confirmed in other posts that he has discovered the bad crimp problem before)

In order to check this out, you should try lifting the positive battery clamp from the battery, leaving the other end connected to the solenoid. (Wrap a rag around the disconnected end of the battery cable). Then connect a battery jumper cable from the battery positive "post" to the solenoid positive stud and see what you get.

I think we are close !!! Good luck - RAY
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:09 AM   #30
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Default Re: solenoid doesn't click switches seem good

So, yeah. I have checked that connection so many times. I have cleaned the battery post and the terminal I have checked the wire and it all seemed fine. BUT...today I took the terminal off the wire. There was corrosion under the connection. The wires didn't look that bad. I cleaned the underside of the connection, clipped the end off and reattached further down the wire and guess what? You were right the whole time. The thing is running! I owe you a debt of gratitude and feel like I should give you some sort of pay. I hope you have a blessed day!
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