crank & rods

ez go go · 02-08-2011, 10:10 PM

Spled, to answer your initial question, the rods should come cut to fit in a perfect world. However, knowing what the price tag is on a crank, I would not throw caution to the wind just b/c the book says it's fine or anybody else. If you can't turn the crank by hand under final torque, I would think twice and get some more technical advice. I have built several engines and would not bolt one back up knowing that I couldnt turn the crank by hand. This would be a quick way to start that exchange of aluminum b/w the crank and rods that ultimately leads to the rod seizing up. BTW, I torque my cap bolts at 9 then 11 and 13 b/c they will continue to bite down as you tighten them. They are aluminum and the crank is steel so the aluminum will give first to the crank. I have tried it before and could turn the rods at 9 but at 13 they had to be forced to move.

csason · 02-08-2011, 10:17 PM

The only reason I interjected what I did, EZ GO GO , is the rods and caps come
sweet finished and any compound on them will ruin them completely.

ez go go · 02-09-2011, 07:18 AM

I understand completely... No big deal... I can tell you that i have used compound on the rods and trued them to the crank many times without ruining them. To correct the gap b/w the rod and crank I shave down the face of the cap and mic it so not to go at it blindly. Some fine emery cloth and motor oil will shine the crank journal and then torque the rods down and go. The first few spins will shine the contact points right up. I'm not contesting any method whatsoever. I am just sayin I know how I've done it before and had no problems. I just hated to see spled ruin his new crank.
BTW, thanks for the explanation csason, we're all here to help and I appreciate you bearing with me. Hopefully he can resolve his issue with no damage.

csason · 02-09-2011, 08:05 AM

Yeah..the parts ain't cheep, and it seems like so much can go wrong, and IT CAN..

All I know is a brand new crank and brand new rods, I have put them in a few times and torqued them by the book and they ran forever..

I'd be more concerned with the rings and head bolts..

I also use lock tight on all my assembly's not sure if anyone else does, but I do.

ez go go · 02-09-2011, 05:06 PM

I think we've educated him somewhat.... At least he knows what could go wrong.

02-08-2011, 10:10 PM	#11
ez go go Doin' the Wild Thang Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Greenville, AL Posts: 1,063	Re: crank & rods Spled, to answer your initial question, the rods should come cut to fit in a perfect world. However, knowing what the price tag is on a crank, I would not throw caution to the wind just b/c the book says it's fine or anybody else. If you can't turn the crank by hand under final torque, I would think twice and get some more technical advice. I have built several engines and would not bolt one back up knowing that I couldnt turn the crank by hand. This would be a quick way to start that exchange of aluminum b/w the crank and rods that ultimately leads to the rod seizing up. BTW, I torque my cap bolts at 9 then 11 and 13 b/c they will continue to bite down as you tighten them. They are aluminum and the crank is steel so the aluminum will give first to the crank. I have tried it before and could turn the rods at 9 but at 13 they had to be forced to move.

02-08-2011, 10:17 PM	#12
csason Love my Big Block Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,553	Re: crank & rods The only reason I interjected what I did, EZ GO GO , is the rods and caps come sweet finished and any compound on them will ruin them completely.

02-09-2011, 07:18 AM	#13
ez go go Doin' the Wild Thang Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Greenville, AL Posts: 1,063	Re: crank & rods I understand completely... No big deal... I can tell you that i have used compound on the rods and trued them to the crank many times without ruining them. To correct the gap b/w the rod and crank I shave down the face of the cap and mic it so not to go at it blindly. Some fine emery cloth and motor oil will shine the crank journal and then torque the rods down and go. The first few spins will shine the contact points right up. I'm not contesting any method whatsoever. I am just sayin I know how I've done it before and had no problems. I just hated to see spled ruin his new crank. BTW, thanks for the explanation csason, we're all here to help and I appreciate you bearing with me. Hopefully he can resolve his issue with no damage.

02-09-2011, 08:05 AM	#14
csason Love my Big Block Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,553	Re: crank & rods Yeah..the parts ain't cheep, and it seems like so much can go wrong, and IT CAN.. All I know is a brand new crank and brand new rods, I have put them in a few times and torqued them by the book and they ran forever.. I'd be more concerned with the rings and head bolts.. I also use lock tight on all my assembly's not sure if anyone else does, but I do.

02-09-2011, 05:06 PM	#15
ez go go Doin' the Wild Thang Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Greenville, AL Posts: 1,063	Re: crank & rods I think we've educated him somewhat.... At least he knows what could go wrong.

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