88 Marathon Breather question

[Deno65]

Hi. I'm new to golf carts so please be gentle. I have an 88 Marathon with the 2pg engine. The prevoius owner did some... "re-engineering" that I've mostly sorted out. However, behind and beneath the carb is a flat surface of the block with three (3) threaded, open holes in a line. The middle one appears to be a breather? Does this need to be connected to something?
I'm not sure if I'm missing some sort of flange/piece that would use the other two holes. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Dave Box]

Without a photo this is just a guess but it sounds like the fuel pump is missing. Two bolts hold it down and the middle is indeed the pulse line to operate the pump. If this is the case then the cart will not be running, correct?

Dave

[Deno65]

A fuel pump here would make sense. The prevoius owner added an electric fuel pump. I installed a threaded plug in the hole , but even with a new carb, it runs only with the 1/3 choke, and a bit rough even then . The hole was open when I purchased it. Compression is around 135lbs.Any thoughts here? Thanks

[Dave Box]

A hypothesis (wild guess). What often happens is that the crankshaft seals wear and that prevents the crankcase from pressurizing. The first symptom is that the engine runs badly and on investigation it is discovered that the fuel pump is hardly working so the owner replaces the pump, sometimes with an electric one (for reasons that I have never understood). Sadly this does nothing to correct the original problem as crankcase pressure is needed not only to drive the mechanical pump but also to inject the gas/oil mix from the crankcase to the cylinder. Now I am not saying that this is what has happened in your case.......... hmmmm........ actually I am.

The way to test my wild unsubstantiated guess is as follows.

Jack up the rear axle. Now look at the rear of the engine by the driven clutch, you can now see the crankshaft and follow it into the engine. In there is the rear crankshaft seal. With a buddy / wife / fruit of your loins gentle revving the engine, shot some WD40 (or similar) right onto the seal. Be careful here as there is a potential to get your necktie, long hair or gentleman parts tangled up in whirring machinery. If the engine tone changes or the speed increases you have a worn seal. There is no way to test the front seal as it is well protected by the flywheel but if the rear is worn so is the front.

On the good news front the parts will set you back about $8. On the bad news front the engine will have to come out and removing the clutch and the flywheel has been known to reduce a grown man to bitter tears of rage and frustration. Just to end on a high note 135 psi is excellent, I suspect that a previous owner in an abortive attempt to find out why it ran so badly, replaced the top end and then gave up.

Good luck

Dave

[Deno65]

Thanks for the very well written reply. This makes complete sense. I will try your proceedure later today if we get out of the teens and up into the 30's as predicted here in rural Western PA. I also noticed an accumulation of oily residue on the bottom of the crank case. I will investgate further to see if I can determine the source. Are there other seals in the case that can leak? Since the prevous owner disconected the govenor, it is very possible that the engine was overreved and /or overheated. Thanks again for the great reply.
Dennis