Light Kit Rewire / Converter Questions

[BRPrecedent]

2010 Precedent. Previous owner added the light kit and bucket harness, but tapped off the pack to get 16V (no 16 to 12 converter, I had some really bright lights!) I just put new batteries in this thing and didn't want an imbalance so here is what I did.

Bought a 10 amp DC to DC converter. Mounted it to the frame behind the passenger wheel. Intercepted the headlight and taillight wiring from the harness. I currently have no plans for turn signals or brake lights, so I was not worried about the rest of the harness. Capped off the rest that went unused, including the ones going to the battery box. Pos coming off the converter on the 12v side has a 10 amp fuse, may drop it to an 8 since it is a cheap converter to be safe. I have two 35 watt halogen lights and the led tail lights running now. LED headlights are on order. 12V Amps should be very low once that is done.

Ran a black 10 Gauge wire from the converter to the black wire coming out under the computer (where the initial ground was connected). Red 10 gauge wire is long enough to make it to the battery box, but coiled up and zip tied in the dash for now. ( Did this in case I add a larger converter with a trigger wire for more accessories later on, for now only need the lights.) I tapped off the key switch for now and put in a 5 amp fuse in line to the converter on the 48v side. I wanted the converter off when the key is off.

New LED headlights will be 20 watts total, and I have no idea what the tail lights draw but it cant be more than 5 watts each if that. By Friday night instead of pulling 80 watts on the 12v side I will be down to 50.



What if anything did I do wrong? Since I am using the black ground wire coming out of the computer, will the computer count the draw from the lights into the calculations for the amount of charge the pack needs? Just for extra safety, I am thinking about getting a 48v solenoid and letting the key switch operate that and running the positive all the way back to the batteries. Does anyone think that is really necessary with the low draw I have on the 48V side?


New to carts, first one. Have read probably 500 posts researching and learning. Thanks for any help and all suggestions!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If you hooked it up and it's working, you didn't do anything wrong. If you ever get leery of it, I recommend the factory style 30 amp reducer. It's a plug and play design and will work with the key switch. It will turn on and off as you turn the key on or off. No drilling, easy to install, and plenty of extra power in reserve for additional accessories in the future. The factory style reducers are the only ones that I use anymore. I've gotten lazy and I'm sick and tired of drilling holes and mounting universal reducers. There are two different ones. One with a 5 wire hookup, and a plug and play for the Precedent. Both will mount to the factory location in a DS or Precedent.

[BRPrecedent]

What is the price on the factory 30amp one?

[BRPrecedent]

By the way, I am the guy here in Baton Rouge that contacted you yesterday / today about the longer drivers side brake cable. Going to order that pretty soon.

[yawood]

Here's Dave's converters...

http://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/voltage-reducers

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by BRPrecedent

By the way, I am the guy here in Baton Rouge that contacted you yesterday / today about the longer drivers side brake cable. Going to order that pretty soon.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by yawood

Here's Dave's converters...

http://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/voltage-reducers

Thank you sir. They come with a 1 year no-questions-asked warranty as well.

[BRPrecedent]

Thanks for the info!

I broke down last night and ordered a 48V 30A relay. I am going to run the positive from the pack to the relay, and let the key switch, switch the relay vs power the converter. I will feel much better with any amps the converter will draw running from the pack thru 10 gauge wire with the relay vs the key switch wiring. I can also relocate the fuse on the 48v side all the way back at the pack where I wanted it and use the spade terminal on the pos cable. Hind sight being 20/20, I should have just bought a better converter with the trigger wire! If anyone finds this thread in the future, buy the bigger converter with the trigger wire. You will save some time and grief!

The "Boss" persuaded me to keep the converter we have now and add the relay VS getting a bigger converter with a trigger wire. Radio, more lights, etc. are not really in the plans for quite a while. A USB in dash charger is, but with the LED lights we should have no issues with the converter I currently have.

In the mean time, I can add a ground buss bar and a fuse panel. If we ever make it to more accessories, 99% of the work will already be done. I wired the converter connections with spade terminals, so swapping it out should be pretty easy.

One more question concerning the relay. I would like to mount it by the controller / computer / or somewhere in that area. Is there easy to get to wiring back there that is switched by the key that I can use to activate the relay? I am going to study the wiring diagrams, but just thought someone may have a quick "Hey, yes the purple wire connected to ..... will work".

[yawood]

The pictures show my circuit, my battery connections and where I put the relay. If you want to put the relay and the converter at the back you just run your wires through the channel in the floor where the existing loom runs. Lift the floor mat and you'll see where it goes.

I have now changed the 12V distribution to a properly fused distribution bus.

The relay that I used (as suggested by Sergio) was...

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...55-T9AP1D52-48

[yawood]

Yeah, and we're still in the good old days compared to the States.