2003 DS IQ - not moving (F or R)

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by brett92

Also, this is probably just a very strange coincidence, but the parking brake won't set and I literally had the brakes serviced a few days ago. The brakes and the cart worked great up until this. Just figured I would throw that out there.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The parking pawl mechanism can be a little picky in the adjustment.
They should have insured that is correct as it is a safety issue.
Take it back and have them fix it!

Something is fishy in the solenoid circuit or the solenoid itself.
Could be sticking and not making good contact on the main terminals.
Check for that dropout as movin-on suggested.
You should hear the more robust click of the solenoid as well as the micro switch in the MCOR as Nole is asking about.

[brett92]

Originally Posted by Raystar57

You should hear the more robust click of the solenoid as well as the micro switch in the MCOR as Nole is asking about.

Okay, I'm glad you mentioned 2 clicks because I've seen clicks referenced elsewhere in threads but it always seemed related to the solenoid.

From what you and NoleFan described, pretty sure I'm hearing the MCOR microswitch but the Solenoid isn't clicking. I sure hope it's the solenoid as its a relatively inexpensive fix (from what i hear).

I sent David at Revolution Cars a message earlier in the week to put me on the schedule so hopefully we'll get it straightened out soon. The wife and kids have been harassing me about it.

[NoleFan4Ever]

If the solenoid is not engaging, it is a few easy things to run down:

Do these in order (And anywhere you see me say "48v" it will actually be your pack voltage at the time)

1- Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors

if still a problem,

2- With the batteries connected, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32 - .5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65 - 5vdc when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR output signal..... Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors (I mainly want to see if the potentiometer in the MCOR is gone)

If still a problem,

3- At the solenoid small posts do the following:
- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input)

- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)

If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.

Barring a loose connection or a controller issue, this should identify the problem. Let us know what you come up with and we will go from there.

[brett92]

Thanks NoleFan for the long detailed response. I've had a couple of home related issues and had to prioritize my troubleshooting time.

I attempted to do what you instructed this morning:

1. Found MCOR (passenger side of frame rail). Unplugged the 2 pin connector and jumper-ed it, but no difference/same issue.

2. I didn't do this since I assumed The MCOR's not the problem at this point. If it's still wort it to do it I will.

3a. I tried it, but didn't get 48V. I disconnected the blue wire from the solenoid and connected with red probe wire on DVM. The black wire I placed on the negative post of battery6 (driver side, rear - I think this is the last battery in an 6x8v config)

3b. Didn't try because of #3

5. I tried measuring resistance across both wires and got 15.xx on lowest ohm setting (20) and got 1 on 200K if I recall.

I can run these tests again if they make no sense.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by brett92

Thanks NoleFan for the long detailed response. I've had a couple of home related issues and had to prioritize my troubleshooting time.

I attempted to do what you instructed this morning:

1. Found MCOR (passenger side of frame rail). Unplugged the 2 pin connector and jumper-ed it, but no difference/same issue. Ok

2. I didn't do this since I assumed The MCOR's not the problem at this point. If it's still wort it to do it I will. Correct - that would have just told us the Potentiometer was working

3a. I tried it, but didn't get 48V. I disconnected the blue wire from the solenoid and connected with red probe wire on DVM. The black wire I placed on the negative post of battery6 (driver side, rear - I think this is the last battery in an 6x8v config) And you did depress the Go Pedal to trigger the signal, correct?

Answer 3a for me...

[brett92]

Operator error on 3a (had multi-meter set to 20v).

3a - is 49.7v (has been off the charger for 3-4 days or so.
3b - only 29.7v - so guessing i have a ground short somehow..

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Brett.... lets look at something simple real quick. You mentioned that the park brake won't lock. I know for a fact that the parking brake was working perfectly because I checked it and made sure it was setup correctly. Here's my theory.....

The IQ car won't run if there's throttle signal detected when the key switch is turned on. The park brake won't lock if the accelerator is partially depressed. I've seen time and time again where a stick or some type of other debris would get wedged behind the accelerator pedal and not allow it to fully release. If the pedal can't fully release, the throttle never returns back to zero % and the park brake wont lock. Make sure there's not something keeping the pedal from retracting. It may be on the floor or it may be underneath the cart.

[brett92]

Hey David - welcome back.

Strangely I rolled the cart a few feet so i could get a jack under it and after that the brake is engaging (other issue still present). So at the moment the brake seems fine.

I did think about what you were saying something blocking the brake/gas pedal. I saw nothing under there and tried blowing it out just to be sure.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by brett92

Hey David - welcome back.

Strangely I rolled the cart a few feet so i could get a jack under it and after that the brake is engaging (other issue still present). So at the moment the brake seems fine.

I did think about what you were saying something blocking the brake/gas pedal. I saw nothing under there and tried blowing it out just to be sure.

Great! Since Tahoe did it, it will be correct.

I think the coil resistance is too low if you measured 15 ohms.
Should be near 150 ohms but they do vary depending on the model.

The Curtis SW180 continuous solenoid for 48V has 150 ohm resistance spec.
If your are reading 15 then the coil has some shorted winding and won't activate.

Please confirm this coil resistance reading and the solenoid type. Is it stock?

A shorted coil could damage the controller if it does not have some type of current limit.
Most do but controller activation circuit could have still been damaged.
15 ohms is not a dead short so that's good but low enough to cause excessive current in the controller circuit.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yeah, the dual coil types are 15-20 Ohms. Here is one of my 400/1000 MZJ's. Me, Swan and Sergio were discussing this a few weeks ago. There is a Primary and Secondary side to these.

Coil ohms.JPG
(Double Click)