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Old 09-26-2018, 01:30 PM   #1
Chlee123
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Default 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Which wires do I connect my multimeter to?
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:55 PM   #2
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

What cart do you have? (Series or Sepex?) and what Potentiometer (P-box, V-glide, converted MCOR?)
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:43 PM   #3
Chlee123
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

DS according to CC codes. Serial A9739-xxxxx. V glide. Has one wire, green with white stripe goes to forward/revers. Has one blue wire goes??(don’t know) Yellow,white, purple wires goes to harness, from there I don’t know.
1997 model. 48 volt. All original except for battery replacements.
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:51 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Yellow and White. You're looking for a range of 5000 ohms to 0 ohms.
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:01 PM   #5
Chlee123
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Thanks!
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:13 PM   #6
Chlee123
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
Yellow and White. You're looking for a range of 5000 ohms to 0 ohms.
Dead on. So I can eliminate potentiometer, correct?
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:37 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Yep. What's your issue?
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:54 PM   #8
Chlee123
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
Yep. What's your issue?
Has been speeding up/slowing down on its on. For some time. Sometimes would not go after I stopped. Rock cart some, get it to go again. Other day, stopped, no go no mo. Also for some time have had to use jumper wire in battery charger to charge.
All batteries and connections are good. 50 volts total. Nothing under 7.9 something on individual battery load test.
Unhooked wires from motor. Have continuity where I should and don’t have where I should not.
Jacked cart up, hooked motor up to 12 volts, motor and wheels turn.
Ran ground wire from Little negative post on solenoid to main ground on batteries. Still no go.
Did same from back of charging plug, no go.
Solenoid engages when petal is depressed, both forward and reverse.
Wheels do turn about 10th of a rotation or attempt to turn a bit when petal is depressed.(with cart jacked up)
Removed controller, intact, no burnt smell.
Ready to pull hair out.(what hair I have left)
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:56 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Here's what you do...

1 - Grab a multimeter with a good battery in it
2 - Walk outside to your cart
3 - Call 706-431-3917
4 - Ask for David
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:20 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1997 48v club car potentiometer test

Thanks for calling.

For those following the thread, he had his controller removed from the car, so we tested everything else individually to come up with our decision.

Keyswitch good (Solenoid clicks, solenoid wouldn't click if it was bad)
F&R switch good (Inspected all contacts on the switch and checked for melting)
Multi-Step Potentiometer Good (did a resistance test all the way back to the controller)
Motor Good (Test ran with 12V battery)
Solenoid Good (Checked voltage in and out of solenoid)
OBC lockout circuit good (solenoid wouldn't click if it wasn't)

Only component remaining is the controller itself.
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