Cart Will Not Move

[JohnnieB]

The ITS throttle system has three parts, two are located within the controller and the third (ITS Sensor) is in the pedal box under the floorboard. Plus the two wires connecting the ITS Sensor to the controller.

The pictures you posted show a stock series drive controller (Curtis 1206) so check the ITS voltages as follows:

Step-1. When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you ought to measure between 9.0V and 11.5V at Pin-2 on the controller and on the black wire at the ITS sensor.

Step-2. When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you ought to measure between 0.4V and 0.6V at Pin-1 on the controller and on the white wire at the ITS sensor.

Step-3. When the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor, you ought to measure between 1.5V and 1.7V at Pin-1 on the controller and on the white wire on at the ITS sensor.

[rfrains2019]

Batteries are maybe 3 years old. I have not had them load tested.

[rfrains2019]

OK JohnnieB I did the following tests.
Key on pin 2 and B- on controller = 14.0 Volts
Key on pin 1 and B- on controller = .4 Volts
Key on pin 1 and B- on controller = 1.5 Volts

[yurtle]

Those tests are from Chapter E page E-8 of:

http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf

"No" on test #23 leads to #24, which you need to do. Assuming you still get 14 volts, ??

I've never done those troubleshooting tests.

As to batteries, have you check pack voltage when trying to go?

[JohnnieB]

That's odd, Pin-2 is out of range while Pin-1 is in ranger. However, the controller is getting the correct throttle signal so cart ought to move and problem is something other than the throttle signal.

[rfrains2019]

OK I have performed step 24 as suggested by Yurtle. Got 14 Volts so already did 25 and 26 so I went to step 36.
I got no voltage at all. Checked it several times.
Step 37 produced voltage between battery B- and controller M-
It shows I need a new controller. So does any body know where i can get the best on a controller?

[yurtle]

I got the stuff in my sig (below) from ScottyB, a Site Sponsor and frequent contributor here.

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/

I'd go with an SR controller. They are good for 36 volts, and can go up to 48 volts if you ever decide you want to:
https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-sr-series--.html

The amperage depends on how you plan to use your cart. Read up on that site about controllers.

How much load do you plan on regularly carrying, rear seat now or in the future?
How much speed do you want/need?
Maybe to be street legal?
How big are your tires, now and in the future?
Do you have steep hills where you ride?

[rfrains2019]

I looked at the SR controller but it does not look like my connector will plug into it any where. Mine is a 1206 controller. Found it on Amazon for $276. I think I should get this one as it is a direct replacement. Should just unplug one a plug in the new one. Uses same solenoid also.
Any thoughts.

[Brob1969]

The reason so many people go with an alltrax when they upgrade is in addition to the performance boost, you have a much more user-friendly interface. With the Alltrax you can hook it up to your laptop and change the performance parameters in addition to being able to realtime view your amperage draw, throttle position, and a number of other aspects of operation.
Also, the Alltrax is built in a manner where you won't "kill it" by incorrect wiring.

With the stock Curtis controller series, you need an expensive handheld programmer to access the software, and improper wiring can fry the circuitry.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Brob1969

The reason so many people go with an alltrax when they upgrade is in addition to the performance boost, you have a much more user-friendly interface. With the Alltrax you can hook it up to your laptop and change the performance parameters in addition to being able to realtime view your amperage draw, throttle position, and a number of other aspects of operation.
Also, the Alltrax is built in a manner where you won't "kill it" by incorrect wiring.

With the stock Curtis controller series, you need an expensive handheld programmer to access the software, and improper wiring can fry the circuitry.

He has a stock Curtis 1206 series controller. Curtis series controllers have NO ability to connect to, and have no adjustable parameters. Curtis is a manufacturer, not a type.

There's nothing wrong with a stock series controller. Generally folks upgrade, but if yours served you well as stock, it's certainly cheaper. There is a For Sale section on this site. I'm guessing you're looking for used, but you can also check with site sponsors who can possibly get prices for new.