Battery light on dash?? 48v charger CC precedent.

[alchemy]

[QUOTE=BTMF;1655207]Ok.
Cause when I wake up and its finally off. That battery light on the dash is on. and I check the voltage in the mornings and I’m getting 53v[emoji2373]

Is that right?

Should it be higher?
/QUOTE]

That reading is too high if your meter is correct and I'm guessing it's still coming down after charge and hasn't stabilized yet. They say 24 hrs but you can knock off that "superficial voltage" by driving briefly too. 50.9V is 100% state of charge but that also depends on how concentrated you electrolyte is. In my experience stable at 50.9 is when you have the batteries full to the base of the cylinder but on a 48V cart it will be 1-1.5V higher if you are just above the plates as is being recommended for these carts. There are other reasons for variation as well. It also sounds like you don't have a digital dash meter which are too cheap and too necessary to pass up. Both I've bought are just about as accurate as my fluke desktop meter.
and yes, I'd agree you don't want bulk charge/full charge rate on them the whole time. That makes me cringe, poor batteries
As for chargers and OBC stuff on these carts, I don't have a clue, I'm here to learn as well.

[Beach Street Cruiser]

[quote=alchemy;1658089]

Originally Posted by BTMF

Ok.

Cause when I wake up and its finally off. That battery light on the dash is on. and I check the voltage in the mornings and I’m getting 53v[emoji2373]



Is that right?



Should it be higher?

/QUOTE]



That reading is too high if your meter is correct and I'm guessing it's still coming down after charge and hasn't stabilized yet. They say 24 hrs but you can knock off that "superficial voltage" by driving briefly too. It also sounds like you don't have a digital dash meter which are too cheap and too necessary to pass up. Both I've bought are just about as accurate as my fluke desktop meter.

and yes, I'd agree you don't want bulk charge/full charge rate on them the whole time. That makes me cringe, poor batteries

Do new batteries need a Certain number or charging cycles before they are able to obtain a “full charge”?


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[Sergio]

It depends on what you mean by "Full Charge", new batteries will not have their full AH capacity until a few charge cycles.

It is also important that during the first cycles you don't place an excessive load or discharge on the batteries.

[alchemy]

[quote=Beach Street Cruiser;1658095]

Originally Posted by alchemy

Do new batteries need a Certain number or charging cycles before they are able to obtain a “full charge”?


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depends what you mean. To me, and it's not worth much, "full charge" means whatever full charge is for a specific battery. As for a certain number of cycles on a new battery there is a chart somewhere online that shows the typical life of a battery with the number of charge/discharge cycles. It gradually peaks after a certain number of cycles and then slowly fades. I keep detailed logs on my batteries and have seen that exact effect.
Although speculative, I'd bet that the reason it takes a certain number of cycles to reach optimum is because the plates get roughed a little exposing more shiny reactive metal than the "glossed and smooth" brand new untouched plates. It gets more surface area and you can really see it under magnification of a metal being acted upon by something. I know for a fact that is the typical reaction of metals with something else. Scientifically, there's also a thing where the surface of a metal gets "activated" or becomes more readily reactive when reacting with something else. I really never got into how that works but I see it all the time in my work. It's also impossible to keep metal surfaces completely oxide free unless it's gold, platinum, etc. or kept under argon or something and that would come even before they installed the plates or they contacted the acid.

[BTMF]

[quote=alchemy;1658089]

Originally Posted by BTMF

Ok.
Cause when I wake up and its finally off. That battery light on the dash is on. and I check the voltage in the mornings and I’m getting 53v[emoji2373]

Is that right?

Should it be higher?
/QUOTE]

That reading is too high if your meter is correct and I'm guessing it's still coming down after charge and hasn't stabilized yet. They say 24 hrs but you can knock off that "superficial voltage" by driving briefly too. 50.9V is 100% state of charge but that also depends on how concentrated you electrolyte is. In my experience stable at 50.9 is when you have the batteries full to the base of the cylinder but on a 48V cart it will be 1-1.5V higher if you are just above the plates as is being recommended for these carts. There are other reasons for variation as well. It also sounds like you don't have a digital dash meter which are too cheap and too necessary to pass up. Both I've bought are just about as accurate as my fluke desktop meter.
and yes, I'd agree you don't want bulk charge/full charge rate on them the whole time. That makes me cringe, poor batteries
As for chargers and OBC stuff on these carts, I don't have a clue, I'm here to learn as well.

Lol. Ok so is it 50.9. Or 60-65v like the guy above said???


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[Sergio]

The 60V+ is how high the voltage can get during charge.

The resting Voltage after the charger has turned OFF for 12 hours or so will be 51V+ depending on ambient temperature and existing loads on the pack.