06 Controller issues

[bjw127]

I am hoping someone can confirm or deny my conclusion. I have replaced my solenoid, tested FNR switch and micro switch on my pedal with a fluke multimeter. I think my problem for my cart not going is my controller. Placed probes on B+ and A1 and pressed pedal. I got zero voltage. Solenoid will not click. I'm not sure where else to check. Don't get me wrong I want to upgrade my controller anyway, but the wife doesn't want me to spend the money unless it is necessary to get the cart moving again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[scottyb]

Solenoid MUST click and close the B+ power supply circuit to the controller BEFORE you can test control.

Concentrate on getting the solenoid to click..... this may solve your problem.

Use your meter to follow the red line from the charge receptacle (or battery B+ in some later models) to the solenoid

[bjw127]

My cart has a hot red wire going into the pedal box with 38.4 volts on it. when depressed i get a reading of 38.4 volts out of the switch via a green wire that is in the plug to the controller. when pedal is pressed i have 38.4 volts going into the controller. I have 3 small wires connected to the solenoid, red on the battery side large post and a yellow, and a blue going to the 2 smaller post. All three of which come directly out of the big plug on the controller.

[kgsc]

What type of drive is this cart ? Red blue and yellow wires from the controller sound like a PDS cart. Is the FnR switch a rocker on the dash ? If so, try this PDS diagram http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-diagrams.html

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like a PDS, A1 terminal on controller and Blue & Yellow wires on solenoid coil.

With charger unplugged from cart, Run/Tow switch in RUN, Key switch ON, F/R switch in either F or R and pedal pushed, you should have full pack voltage on all wires highlighted in red.

IF you don't, fix that wire, connection or switch.
IF you do, and the solenoid does not click, the controller is bad.

[bjw127]

I have between 38.4 and 38.2 volts on all the highlighted wires. is there a way to test what is coming out of the controller. I have created a jumper from B+ to the battery side of the solenoid and the cart will move. Solenoid still doesn't click.

[JohnnieB]

The PDS is a "Fly-by-Wire" system and the controller does everything. so if part of it isn't working, the whole thing is bad.

The controller supplies both B+ and B- to the solenoid coil via the Yellow and Blue wires, which are connected to J1 Pins 7 & 6 respectively.

Flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow and unplug J1 from controller. Measure between Pins 6 & 7 in wiring harness side with an ohmmeter. If you have continuity, the two wire and solenoid coil are good, so the solenoid activation circuitry inside the controller is defective, which means the controller has to be replaced.

This conclusion is based on you stating you have B+ on all the wires highlighted on the schematic I posted.

------------
BTW: Toss a DCX400 controller in your cart and it will do about 24 MPH on stock height tires, if the batteries, high-current cables and solenoid are up to par.

[bjw127]

I had planned on doing the dcx500 is it not worth it?

[scottyb]

500a is good for an aftermarket motor. The stock PDS motor does better on 400a and 42v.
IS it worth it? It is like day and night difference in performance...

[bjw127]

how do you charge a 42v system, i have seen 36 volt chargers and 48 volt chargers?