E-Z-GO RXV Solenoid - 48 Volt Solenoid to Replace 36 Volt Solenoid...

[Role]

I stand corrected.. I wasn't told the correct information on the cart and looked at the serial and identified the model year. It is in fact a 2010 model NOT a 2013.

Going to check ohms at motor brake and see if it falls within factory spec.
Report back shortly.

Btw, I've eliminated the solenoid, the key switch, and battery voltage.
If it's not the motor brake I'm thinking the software in the controller is faulting and causing some type of constant cycle error.

[cgtech]

If you are getting a jerk enough to move the cart, I bet the brake is the problem. If you can, try this: park the cart on a hill (doesn't need to be super steep, only like the height if the front wheels were on top of a curb). Then try to push it downhill. If it can be pushed, the brake is failed. This test is not a "holy grail", but if it fails this, it's bad for sure. A good motor brake can hold a rxv on some crazy steep hills, like 30° hills (if not more). I suggest doing this test on a dirt mound, or ramp, or something similar, Not a real mountain where a shattered brake disc could allow the cart to go out of control down a long grade. I think your brake is just worn out, not shattered (it would never pass the test), but I have seen the disc shattered into many pieces (abuse).

[Adjake]

Does anyone know what the pwm setting should be to put a 48v solenoid in?
I have to change one out on a 14 and I have a few 48’s but no 36’s

[cgtech]

Pull in- 100%
Holding- 80%
Would work just fine.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Role

Thank you both for the input.

Since I don't have a programmer for it, I guess I'll go back with the 36 volt solenoid. Can I use any type of 36v solenoid? I've got a Rodgers 36v nothing special.

Be sure it is a solenoid rated for continuous duty. I have found that the basic 36 volt solenoids tend to get hot because Sol engages with key switch, not pedal.

[fvfcfirefighter100]

I have a similar problem. Some times the cart would not move and I would turn the key off and back on and it would work. I have replaced the motor brake. When it wont move I noticed that the side of the soleniod that goes to the controller only has 46 v on it. Have replaced the soleniod and have the same problem. Any help would be apprecated.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Pull in- 100%
Holding- 80%
Would work just fine.

cgtech - For those of us running lithium with full voltage at 58V. Would you want to make an adjustment to the PWM if still running the 36V solenoid? Maybe something like:
Pull in - 65% (instead of 75%)
Holding - 53% (instead of 60%)

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by PingEye3

cgtech - For those of us running lithium with full voltage at 58V. Would you want to make an adjustment to the PWM if still running the 36V solenoid? Maybe something like:
Pull in - 65% (instead of 75%)
Holding - 53% (instead of 60%)

If using the 36v solenoid, that stands to theoretical reason. Yes. BUT- and this is a real big BUTT!

BUT- there are problems with this reasoning, you have likely not changed the voltage the controller expects (it still thinks it's running a 48v pack, correct?).

The controller "normalizes" the voltage it tunes it's outputs to, to match what it was configured to originally. You are stretching the edges of it's pre-configured parameters (at this voltage, several issues could pop up, like the "burn-off coil" may frequently be activated unless reconfigured). I would be looking to get the controller "in tune" before I worried about the solenoid voltages, which it has handled right now for you, even though you are pushing it's pre-configured parameters. It's already taking care of your solenoid voltages, because it's doing "a percentage of it's 48v configuration". There are specific options like that go a little like this, "for this parameter, since I'm configured to be a 48v controller, would you like me to pretend voltage will at all times be exactly 48v, so I always treat the main solenoid exactly like a '36v solenoid' even though voltage varies in real life", that box is checked "yes" by Ezgo. It doesn't look quite like this in the programmer, but that's the best I could word it.

In regular talk, it's already programmed to treat it like a 36v solenoid, regardless of input voltage, let it be.

Change it when the rest of the controller parameters are in line with the pack. It offers many things the "lithium converter" could possibly use, and optimize for their pack (plenty I haven't learned/used as well).

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by cgtech

If using the 36v solenoid, that stands to theoretical reason. Yes. BUT- and this is a real big BUTT!

BUT- there are problems with this reasoning, you have likely not changed the voltage the controller expects (it still thinks it's running a 48v pack, correct?).

The controller "normalizes" the voltage it tunes it's outputs to, to match what it was configured to originally. You are stretching the edges of it's pre-configured parameters (at this voltage, several issues could pop up, like the "burn-off coil" may frequently be activated unless reconfigured). I would be looking to get the controller "in tune" before I worried about the solenoid voltages, which it has handled right now for you, even though you are pushing it's pre-configured parameters. It's already taking care of your solenoid voltages, because it's doing "a percentage of it's 48v configuration". There are specific options like that go a little like this, "for this parameter, since I'm configured to be a 48v controller, would you like me to pretend voltage will at all times be exactly 48v, so I always treat the main solenoid exactly like a '36v solenoid' even though voltage varies in real life", that box is checked "yes" by Ezgo. It doesn't look quite like this in the programmer, but that's the best I could word it.

In regular talk, it's already programmed to treat it like a 36v solenoid, regardless of input voltage, let it be.

Change it when the rest of the controller parameters are in line with the pack. It offers many things the "lithium converter" could possibly use, and optimize for their pack (plenty I haven't learned/used as well).

Thank you cgtech - The cart in question was reprogrammed by Bob Boyce so most likely that was addressed when he made changes.

[batterysource]

Originally Posted by fvfcfirefighter100

I have a similar problem. Some times the cart would not move and I would turn the key off and back on and it would work. I have replaced the motor brake. When it wont move I noticed that the side of the soleniod that goes to the controller only has 46 v on it. Have replaced the soleniod and have the same problem. Any help would be apprecated.

Try this before changing a bunch of parts- with the key off and cart tow switch in run; grab the accelerator pedal and pull it towards the rear of the cart and hold it; as your holding the pedal back turn the key switch on & see if the error audible beep stops and if so, try to drive the cart... Alot of times witht the RXV's they collect sand in the pedal box below the floorboard and will cause the pedal to not fully disengage which in turn won't allow the cart to run when you turn the cart on- they have a safety check in the very beginning once you turn the key on in any position it will check/bump forwards reverse a chirp for the reverse buzzer & motor brake will click, this is the way these carts operate! Hopefully this may help out and save you some time and $$$!!!!...