RXV Solenoid clicks then one long buzzer

[rockfordpi]

Key on, solenoid clicks, then one long buzzer that stays on until key off. No attempt to move when throttle pressed. Cart will not roll at any key position, but moving the connector from 1-2 to 1-3 does release the brake where it will roll.

Nothing connected to plug underneath the dash.

[cgtech]

I'm thinking the beeping is trying to alert you to a brake test failed. Are brake lights on too? If the red/green jumper wire plug is not present under cupholder, i think it would cause a brake test failed. Cannot make cart run without jumper plug under cupholder.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by cgtech

I'm thinking the beeping is trying to alert you to a brake test failed. Are brake lights on too? If the red/green jumper wire plug is not present under cupholder, i think it would cause a brake test failed. Cannot make cart run without jumper plug under cupholder.

OK, new jumper plug came in today and I installed. Now:

1. Cart goes forward (YEA!)
2. Cart does NOT go in reverse (boo)
3. Reverse Buzzer still never goes off.

On other thing. Looks like previous owner tried to eliminate reverse buzzer, both wires to buzzer had been cut, but have now been wire nutted back together. But clearly the buzzer does work.

[BobBoyce]

Opening the reverse beeper circuit by cutting the wires was a bad move by a previous person. It's a catch 22 situation for the controller if someone toggled the run/tow switch while the beeper wire was cut. If you're lucky, it just corrupted the controllers memory. If not, it damaged the input sense line on that I/O port on the controller. All outputs are paired with an input that are used during the powerup test sequence.

On to the missing Run Plug under the cupholder... That plug must be there in order for the cart to pass the powerup test sequence. There are only 2 wires in the run plug. One is + for the Motor Brake, the other is - for the Motor Brake. I included a photo of the Run Plug in its socket under the cupholder assembly on my 2008 RXV.

You do not mention the year of the RXV. On my 2008 with a Curtis controller, if I remove the run plug and turn on the key, it does not sound off the reverse beeper in F, R, or N.

Bob

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Opening the reverse beeper circuit by cutting the wires was a bad move by a previous person. It's a catch 22 situation for the controller if someone toggled the run/tow switch while the beeper wire was cut. If you're lucky, it just corrupted the controllers memory. If not, it damaged the input sense line on that I/O port on the controller. All outputs are paired with an input that are used during the powerup test sequence.

On to the missing Run Plug under the cupholder... That plug must be there in order for the cart to pass the powerup test sequence. There are only 2 wires in the run plug. One is + for the Motor Brake, the other is - for the Motor Brake. I included a photo of the Run Plug in its socket under the cupholder assembly on my 2008 RXV.

You do not mention the year of the RXV. On my 2008 with a Curtis controller, if I remove the run plug and turn on the key, it does not sound off the reverse beeper in F, R, or N.

Bob

I think it is a 2013, can't read date code, but do have serial number. It is Curtis Controller (black heat shield).

I have replaced the run plug.

I bought this cart with expectation and price that I was going to have to put a new controller on it. I hope I can avoid that, but if not, it is OK.

So, what should I do next?

BTW, I have the curtis programming cable you helped me make in another thread (THANKS AGAIN!) but do not have RXV connector yet (ordering connector parts today). Can I use that to verify the problem and re-write the firmware if needed?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by rockfordpi

I think it is a 2013, can't read date code, but do have serial number. It is Curtis Controller (black heat shield).

I have replaced the run plug.

I bought this cart with expectation and price that I was going to have to put a new controller on it. I hope I can avoid that, but if not, it is OK.

So, what should I do next?

BTW, I have the curtis programming cable you helped me make in another thread (THANKS AGAIN!) but do not have RXV connector yet (ordering connector parts today). Can I use that to verify the problem and re-write the firmware if needed?

If you can get your programming station up and running, and you have an identical controller (OS and HW versions, revision levels, ect) then yes. You can extract the OS/VCL files from that controller, rewrite the serial number in the file to match the target controller, then flash that to the target controller. If you don't have an identical controller, then you would have to locate the files for one. I've supplied files to FSIP a few times when Curtis would not.

What happens is a reversal of polarity on the input if the beeper opens circuit. The result is the beeper output of the controller shorts to always on. It's not a short on the beeper control FET, that would be easy to fix. The input that is paired to that output shorts, keeping the output pulled low. That is an I/O pin on the microcontroller chip itself. One workaround is a remapping of the controller, to use another I/O pin. The RXV has an unused one, one that is used to control the cooling fan on a 2Five version of the RXV design. By reconfiguring the controller wiring to use a different pin on the controller for the beeper and the run/tow switch, and remapping the controller I/Os, you can do a workaround of the damaged I/O line. Just remap the damaged beeper I/O to the unused Fan control part of the OS and remap the fan I/O to the beeper control part of the OS. It's all done in programming, and the moving of one wire at the 35 pin controller harness. Piece of cake, for someone that knows Curtis controllers. LOL

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

If you can get your programming station up and running, and you have an identical controller (OS and HW versions, revision levels, ect) then yes. You can extract the OS/VCL files from that controller, rewrite the serial number in the file to match the target controller, then flash that to the target controller. If you don't have an identical controller, then you would have to locate the files for one. I've supplied files to FSIP a few times when Curtis would not.

What happens is a reversal of polarity on the input if the beeper opens circuit. The result is the beeper output of the controller shorts to always on. It's not a short on the beeper control FET, that would be easy to fix. The input that is paired to that output shorts, keeping the output pulled low. That is an I/O pin on the microcontroller chip itself. One workaround is a remapping of the controller, to use another I/O pin. The RXV has an unused one, one that is used to control the cooling fan on a 2Five version of the RXV design. By reconfiguring the controller wiring to use a different pin on the controller for the beeper and the run/tow switch, and remapping the controller I/Os, you can do a workaround of the damaged I/O line. Just remap the damaged beeper I/O to the unused Fan control part of the OS and remap the fan I/O to the beeper control part of the OS. It's all done in programming, and the moving of one wire at the 35 pin controller harness. Piece of cake, for someone that knows Curtis controllers. LOL

Sounds like I may be replacing the controller, LOL.

Does that also explain why it will not run in reverse?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by rockfordpi

Sounds like I may be replacing the controller, LOL.

Does that also explain why it will not run in reverse?

Corruption could cause that, but not usually. There are a pair of wires from the keyswitch to the controller. Power from KSI is applied to one for forward and the other for reverse. Maybe the keyswitch is confused

Your controller is probably a 1206AC-5201. There are a lot of those out there, they were installed for a few years, starting in late Feb of 2012.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Corruption could cause that, but not usually. There are a pair of wires from the keyswitch to the controller. Power from KSI is applied to one for forward and the other for reverse. Maybe the keyswitch is confused

Your controller is probably a 1206AC-5201. There are a lot of those out there, they were installed for a few years, starting in late Feb of 2012.

Based on serial number, looks like it is a 2015 model. Actually the key switch wiring is one of the few areas that appear to not have been tampered with. However, I will double check key switch wiring just to be on safe side. I hate the thought of replacing an expensive controller that is not broken.

[Jasonrs4317]

What was the resolution I am dealing with the same problem.

Thank you