Cart Will Not Move

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by rfrains2019

I looked at the SR controller but it does not look like my connector will plug into it any where. Mine is a 1206 controller. Found it on Amazon for $276. I think I should get this one as it is a direct replacement. Should just unplug one a plug in the new one. Uses same solenoid also.
Any thoughts.

Yes, you have to cut of the connector and crimp on 4 spade connectors, but if you don't need to upgrade, stock controllers can be found used. Maybe check site sponsors, eBay, Amazon, CL, etc.

There is a For Sale section here.

Also, if you do buy an Alltrax for the future, you can dial down the output, so no need to upgrade solenoid, cables, FNR, etc.

How long have you had the cart, and how hard do you drive it? If you've had it a while, and it's held up for years, stock may be fine. If you're a new owner, pushing it harder than it was designed to be pushed, you may want to consider upgrading.

[Brob1969]

I know that some of the Curtis controllers can be accessed via the Curtis handheld programmer. They can be used for diagnostics and programming.

I recently had a Curtis 1205M reprogrammed.

[scottyb]

With the Alltrax SR controller you can reprogram anytime you like using free software. It's a s simple as connecting a printer cable between the control and a windows laptop. Plus you can switch between 2 pre-set modes you create while driving. Or use the Alltrax speed potentiometer to dial speed up or down on the fly... Plus it has a 2 year free replacement warranty. No questions asked.

SR48400 has a peak output of 460 amps

SR48500 has a peak out put of 570 amps

[Brob1969]

Yeah ScottyB, the user-friendliness of the Alltrax makes it the clear choice for me personally. I recently picked up a cart with a legacy AXE controller. The cart was having some issues so I called Alltrax support and the tech happily walked me through the diagnosis procedure. This controller was WAY out of warranty, and there were no questions asked, just friendly, helpful customer service.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Brob1969

I know that some of the Curtis controllers can be accessed via the Curtis handheld programmer. They can be used for diagnostics and programming.

I recently had a Curtis 1205M reprogrammed.

I didn't know that. I've had two 1206s and they were dumb plug-n-play. Do they have a programming port?

[rfrains2019]

No I will go with new as it will come with a 2 year warranty. I will take photos of mine and notes before I unhook it so I should be able to wire it the same way. Should not fry it.
Thanks for every bodies help.

[Brob1969]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I didn't know that. I've had two 1206s and they were dumb plug-n-play. Do they have a programming port?

The 1205 I had reprogrammed had a 4-pin molex connection on the front. The handheld plugged into this. It was definitely for a series motor. I do have an older Curtis Controller that has no legible numbers left on it that doesn't have the molex plug. It's not working, so I am planning on cutting into the potting to see what I can see.

[yurtle]

Mine didn't have any potting or programming port. Careful when you open it, as there are two small wires that go to a heat sensor. If I recall, I just snipped mine, to keep the same wire color on the board. They may not be polarized, but I did it anyway.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by rfrains2019

First the year and Model

EZ-GO Medalist Ser# 846195 Electric 36V 1994



I have read many posts on here about cart not moving so I will try to explain what I have done so far.

I ordered new battery cables, cleaned battery posts and installed new cables.

I check continuity between S1 and S2 and A1 and A2 on the motor. They checked good so I feel confident I still have a good motor.

I thought at first it might be the solenoid as there was no clicking so I ordered a new one and installed it. It is clicking but cart still does not move.

I have full power 36+ V at controller at all times between M- and B- does not matter if I push gas peddle down or not.

I have full power between the small posts on the solenoid when gas peddle is pushed down.

I lifted up the floor cover and removed plastic cover to find a small electronic switch. When a place a V meter on the leads connected to the small relay switch I have full power and when I press the gas peddle and the switch opens I get no power and the solenoid clicks.

I do need to mention after I took off the cover to expose the switch and pressed the gas peddle the did move. So I put it in reverse and it moved. It did this a couple times but now it does not move just a clicking solenoid.

The F/R switch looks fine no burnt cables or hot areas.

Also at the controller when using a VM on A2 an B+ I get no power even with the gas peddle pushed down. This may be normal.

Just not sure what to look at next. Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to attach some photos. If the photos are to small I can resize and send up again.

Is it just me or does that bottom cable on the FNR look broken, or at best very thin? tapatalk_1553014263866.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by mgray70

Is it just me or does that bottom cable on the FNR look broken, or at best very thin? Attachment 183762

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Only looking on my phone, but looks dicey to me.

I’m not sure exactly which controller the OP is getting, but I’m surprised nobody has mentioned the potential hassles of a rebuilt one. Maybe it’s new?