Drop axle lift, tires rub on turns

[DFW Rusty]

Originally Posted by Brob1969

Has anyone here successfully shifed their axle forward?

That would be a tough job to do with out compromising the integrity of the front suspension. The best way would be to buy longer springs, but then your chancing putting your steering in a bind.


OP, what backspacing is your rims? It looks like a wheel spacer may help.

OP, Also, your running 22's on a drop axle lift, however I don't recall reading how much lift you have. It doesn't look like you have a lot of room on the top of the fender to the top of your tire, is it a short lift (under 3") this may be your real problem, that your running too big of tire for not enough lift.

[Brob1969]

I will check out the backspace on the wheels when I get home, they're a 'Douglas Golf' brand wheel.

The picture of the tire close to the wheel well was when I parked it with one wheel in a depression to illustrate what happens when it rubs. It only rubs if I'm making a turn on uneven ground and the axle is articulating.

Here's a picture of it sitting on relatively level ground. I will also post a picture later showing the drop axle measurement; I believe it's a 5"-6" lift. It only rubs at the back of the fender, not the top.

[DFW Rusty]

I googled around and it looks like you can get a 4" drop arm kit, which may be what you have. It doesn't look way too short, just a little closer to the tire than a 5" or 6" lift. I googled 1" lift kit for your cart and couldn't find anything. I feel if there was a way to raise your front 1" you should clear with no rubbing.

Not a recommendation (unless someone says it is a proven good idea), just throwing an idea out for discussion.
I wonder if you could get some 3/4" or 1" flat stock cut as a spacer and put it under leaf spring and on top of your front axle. This would create basically a 1" spacer. I don't know what it would throw off kilter, but it could be a cheap and relatively easy remedy to the tire rubbing. You would obviously have to get longer bolts for the leaf spring retainers, but that isn't a big deal.

[pachanga90]

The problem with extending the axle pad past the springs,is it puts alot of pressure on the tip of the spring,and it will snap the end off.If you have a local Spring-Shop,they can make up a new Main leaf for you,whatever length you want,then just replace your stock ones with the longer,and reuse your other leafs.We made my springs like that,I worked in a spring-shop for 11 years.All they need is yours as a sample,and tell them how much longer you want them.You can also have them tip the ends up/down to adjust for Caster-Angle.Hope this helps.

[Brob1969]

Yep Rusty, I have been considering the same thing, someone else suggested spacers on the shock mounts as well; not sure how either would affect the situation, but I may have some 1/2" flat stock to see what it does.

Pachanga, that's also something I have considered as the rubbing is only at the back of the fender well, not the top. Just an inch or two forward would probably solve the problem. How did your cart handle with longer springs?

[Rooster59]

From the body angle it looks to me like the previous owner added the ST spindles in front and put the rear axle under the springs. For the ST model tires to clear the body the front spring mounts are welded to the top of the axle. On the TXT models the spring pad is welded to the bottom of the front axle. That is another 1.5" of lift for the ST model.

Take a photo of the front axle straight on from the front of the cart, and include the spindles in the pic then post it here. It is likely you could just have spring pads welded to the top of the axle and all would be good. Then the cart would sit level too.

[Brob1969]

You are correct that the springs are mounted to the bottom of the axle. I will snap a picture when I get home. I hadn't considered relocating the mounts to the top.

[pachanga90]

BRob1969,It handles great,my chassis is a Marathon with a TXT body,so it had shorter springs originally(17" if I remember right,the new ones are somewhere around 21-22",ill have to check).We did make the new ones longer,and with more arch,along with tipping the axle-end up,so that the axle wasnt curled under,which really helps steering,since the caster is coser to "0",instead of way Negative,which makes it heavy to steer,and it doesnt return,you have to do all the work,and your arms will hate you.

[Sideways]

Originally Posted by Brob1969

You are correct that the springs are mounted to the bottom of the axle. I will snap a picture when I get home. I hadn't considered relocating the mounts to the top.

If you go this route, you will not have to weld the new spring mounts to the top of the axle. The new mounts sit on top of the axle then run longer bolts (I suggest Grade 8 bolts) thru the top and the already welded bottom mounts.

[Brob1969]

Here is a picture of the drop axle I snapped the other day.