powerwise 2 charger relay

[yurtle]

See if you have pack voltage at your cart's charger radsaks. Some carts come with a fuse in the charging circuit. If you don't have pack voltage there, you'll never have it inside the charger.

[sprockket]

I was able to work on the charger this morning. I did have pack voltage at the receptacle on the cart. I plugged the DC cord into the cart but had no pack voltage inside the charger. Started from scratch to make sure everything was in order and the only thing I can see is one diode which is an original diode is not insulated or is getting continuity between the diode and heat sink. The second and newer style bolt through diode is insulated and not getting continuity, The original and I think bad diode is next to the ammeter. I have a second and working charger that I took the cover off to check. It's still all original Powerwise inside, original 2 boards and diodes. Those 2 diodes were insulated and not getting continuity. Therefore I think I have a diode that is bad. Sorry for thr long post. Thanks for all the help.

[yurtle]

Why would you assume a random thing like a diode without doing the troubleshooting recommended?

First thing I'd do is correct you connection problems. If you can't read pack voltage inside the charger, then there is NO WAY you are charging the batteries, which is probably why the ammeter reads zero.

After you fix the radsok or Aux contact problem and have pack voltage inside the charger, if it still doesn't work, use the material JohnnyB gave you and follow the troubleshooting instructions.

First you assumed a bad capacitor, now it's a bad diode. What about the fact that even if you jumped the charger, you are reading zero amps? Your batteries are dying a slow and horrible death unless you get them charged.

[sprockket]

sorry but I checked everything again from scratch as I explained in my last too long of post I checked the capacitor and it reads 1.6. I have pack voltage at the carts recepatacle but I can't get it to the red and black wires coming off the board. Maybe I'm not testing it properly? I have continuity in both AC and DC plugs. I have continuity on the small I guess it's a ground or something that's inside the DC plug. I checked the transformers windings to ground on the case and no continuity. I checked the 2 diode's and one that is original is getting continuity and the second new style diode is not getting continuity. ALSo as I stated in my previous post that I have a second and WORKING charger.I haven't drove this cart now for over a week. The battery pack is showing 38.8 on Scottyb's digital in dash volt meter. My batteries all measure within 1 tenth of balance. My batteries are not dying a SLOW DEATH. I really enjoy working on something that helps me learn as I go. I am not perfect but It seems that some people like to belittle others because they ask some stupid questions. I sincerely apologize for my ignorance.

[yurtle]

No I apologize for being short with you. Until you can get both wires from inside the charger to the charger port, then to the batteries, the charger will NOT turn on and it WILL NOT charge the batteries. Jumping the relay may make the transformer hum, but since you have no continuity on the two wires inside the charger all the way to the batteries, the charger won't kick in and the batteries won't charge.

Both JohnnyB and I are in agreement that you need to fix the above problem before you can even consider other possible problems. Jumping around to random things is counter productive. Start with one wire inside the charger. Check to see if you have continuity to the charger plug. Do this with both wires AND the Aux wire. Once you get this, then plug the plug into the carts charger port. Now check continuity all the way to the battery terminal.

NOTE: you can do this with voltage OR continuity, but be careful not to place pack voltage across the leads when in continuity mode.

Let us know when this is fixed. I have faith in you.

[yurtle]

Once you get pack voltage inside the charger, the file JohnnyB gave you, 35827_A1.pdf is a GREAT manual, and walks you through each and every step.

As I mentioned before, the charger won't work if the ammeter is really dead, not just the movement frozen. Test for pack minus at the ammeter and the fuse. If either of them are bad, there's your problem.

[sprockket]

I must be checking for voltage at the wrong place. I was trying to get it at the relay board where the red wire goes to the heat sink and the black wire goes up to the DC cord. I have continuity through the DC cord but should I be checking for pack voltage at the fuse to ammeter? I must be wrong there?

[sprockket]

I thought that is what was meant by red and black wires.

[yurtle]

I just opened up the attached, which JohnnyB provided. There is a wiring diagram in it, which shows where the negative wire comes/goes from/to the cart, then the ammeter, to the fuse, then to the board. I've never had to troubleshoot mine. I had the same one you do, but sold it when I got the DPI in my sig. Going to 48 volts meant I needed a new charger. I fried two boards due to lightning. They were obviously quite exploded, so no troubleshooting necessary.

Did you ever check the fuse? That or the ammeter will cause the charger to not turn on, and even with the relay jumpered, it will NOT charge the batteries.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by sprockket

I thought that is what was meant by red and black wires.

It is, but that assumes you checked the fuse and the ammeter is still good. An unknown at this time.