03 EZGO won't move in forward or reverse

[Bamarep]

Thanks, I'll definitely check that. Simple stuff first, right?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Bamarep

Thanks, I'll definitely check that. Simple stuff first, right?

It's a series. It's all simple. Hopefully not expensive.

In case you have limited time on week days, do ScottyB's test, then here's another fast test for throttle signal:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...e-testing.html

Click on the attached thumbnails on the link.

I know you said you had the manuals, but if your computer's slow, here's chapter E, troubleshooting.

[Bamarep]

Thanks Yurtle. You guys are definitely one of the most helpful forums I've been on. I'm a little under the weather so I don't know how much I'll get to mess with it today. I'm ready to get her going and then see what mods I want to make to her. I know I want to lift it and put some sexier tires on her.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Bamarep

Thanks Yurtle. You guys are definitely one of the most helpful forums I've been on. I'm a little under the weather so I don't know how much I'll get to mess with it today. I'm ready to get her going and then see what mods I want to make to her. I know I want to lift it and put some sexier tires on her.

Larger tires is a good excuse for a HD FNR, SD solenoid, cables, and controller. See my sig. I bought all of that from ScottyB. Good upgrade information, and once it's up and running, we can recommend a sequence that allows 36 volts now, then 48 down the road.

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/upgrade-suggestions.html

I don't know how old your batteries are, but if they're new, do this:

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-break-in-.html

[Bamarep]

OK, going through the troubleshooting process I'm down to checking B- with the red wire in the 4 pin at the top of the connector. I don't have pack voltage right there, I have 28.66 instead of 38.44.

[yurtle]

Are you using chapter E in the manual? Which step are you on?

Gotta run down the road for a little while.

[Bamarep]

I do have E.

I'm on 22. When I check the Pack (-) to the 4 pin (red wire) I'm only getting 28V when it says I should be getting pack voltage (38V). I pinged all the wires from the throttle sensor and they all check good.

[yurtle]

I assume you have a wiring diagram. This is what powers the solenoid AND the controller. Your lower voltage may be enough to activate the solenoid, but not enough for the controller to power up. With your negative probe on pack negative, you should get pack voltage at each of the following switches, reed switch - called ignition interlock on the attached, MS2 on the FNR, key switch, and MS3 in the throttle box. One of these switches is faulty.

Step 6 says if solenoid clicks, go to step 22. However, in this case, I'd recommend assuming step 6 failed, and check the switches mentioned above, as one is not making a solid enough contact to power the controller.

This could be good luck, as switches are a lot cheaper than a controller.

[mgray70]

Get you an alligator clip jumper and connect it from battery pack B+ to the small post on the solenoid with the red wire on it. If it runs then it will verify one of the micro switches or wires on the activation circuit that Yurtle referred to. If not continue on with the steps.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by mgray70

Get you an alligator clip jumper and connect it from battery pack B+ to the small post on the solenoid with the red wire on it. If it runs then it will verify one of the micro switches or wires on the activation circuit that Yurtle referred to. If not continue on with the steps.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

I'd prolly do the same, as I'm impatient. However, it is impossible for him to NOT get pack voltage unless a switch, wire, or spade connector is bad.