Installed 350 Amp Controller RXV Not Working

[Ozoneduck]

Thank you. I’ll get a new brake and install it.

Also some of the wires are tight going to the motor with the new batteries. Can I cut and use butt connectors to lengthen them?

Appreciate the help.

[cgtech]

Don't cut them, horrible idea! They need all the protection they can get. The harnesses already have problems with corrosion intrusion. Just reroute them, and keep them from leaning directly against the batteries.

[Ozoneduck]

Good day, so upon further diagnosis on the cart this is what is happening. I have also ordered a new brake as it appears that might be the problem.

Turn cart on to reverse, neutral or forward cart lurches or rocks forward and than back. Run tow switch is in run. Can push the cart in any of the three as the brake is not engaged at all in run mode and tow mode. Electric brake checks out at 25.9 ohms.

Took electric brake off cart and cart lurches exactly the same way it did with the electric brake on the cart. When I switch from tow mode to run mode cart lurches like it did when I turn on the key with both electric brake on and off the cart.

Also unplugged electric brake and started the cart. No lurching and cart can’t be pushed in tow mode or run mode. I think that maybe since the electric brake is unplugged it does not try the twist test?

One other thing I noticed is that when the electric brake is plugged in the brake gets very warm just sitting.

Thank you all.

[cgtech]

This cart was originally a Curtis controller, right? Not a Danaher conversion.

[Ozoneduck]

Yes, Curtis with a standard controller.

[Ozoneduck]

So I put back in the original 235 amp cutis controller and all works as normal. No lurching/jerking when I turn on the cart.

The 350 amp controller has been tuned so there is a good chance it hits harder when turned on which is causing the brake to fail its test.

When you put in the new controller it is just a swap with the same connections? Do a need a more heavy duty solenoid or different solenoid with the 350 amp controller?

Thanks to all for your help and I’m sure we will get this figured out.

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by Ozoneduck

So I put back in the original 235 amp cutis controller and all works as normal. No lurching/jerking when I turn on the cart.

The 350 amp controller has been tuned so there is a good chance it hits harder when turned on which is causing the brake to fail its test.

When you put in the new controller it is just a swap with the same connections? Do a need a more heavy duty solenoid or different solenoid with the 350 amp controller?

Thanks to all for your help and I’m sure we will get this figured out.

You'll need a 48v solenoid with that 350amp controller. If the 235amp controller is a 1206AC-5201,5202, or a 5203 they came with a 36v solenoid.

[Ozoneduck]

Thanks. I will check that tonight.

[Ozoneduck]

Good catch...the controller is a 1206AC-5201 and the solenoid is a 36V Trombetta. So I am hopeful that might be the problem that I am having. I will get a 48V solenoid tomorrow and try that.

What problems would the wrong solenoid cause?

I will update the post as soon as I try it.

Thanks

[Ozoneduck]

Good day to all.

So I installed a HD Brake and 48V solenoid and still having the same problem.

Cart turns on and jerks and than won’t drive. It can be pushed so the electric brake is not engaging.

My old controller works fine so maybe it is something in the new controller that is causing the problem.

Thank you to all