1997 EZ-GO TXT DCS cart no go!

[pymoo]

Yep- The red/green wires have 38.2 volts this morning across with the key on (nothing with the key off). When the pedal is depressed and the microswitch clicks, voltage goes to zero.

I hope the root cause is getting clearer to you guys, because the mystery to me (as the cart noob home mechanic) is only deepening... Could this be a controller issue? Thanks for all the help.

[scottyb]

Are you saying that with the meter connected to red and green wire you have 38v? Which one is negative?

[pymoo]

There is 38.2V between the red and green wires. I did not pay attention to which was negative, but can check later...

[pymoo]

I found a DCS wiring diagram link in an old thread that will be helpful...

http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/dcs.pdf

Are DCS carts known to be less reliable?

[scottyb]

Not really, DCS carts have a weakness. They blow the controller in low voltage situations..... Like. say your battery pack is low and you try to drive it up a long hill, Or even if the kids drive it until it 'runs out of juice'... it may smoke the controller.
The best thing to do is to install a state of charge meter and live by it.... never let the pack get below 36v sitting or 32v under load.
Trace the green wire out and see why it is has negative voltage. Does that peddle micro still work?

[detroitdeb]

check the reed switch

[detroitdeb]

on a powerwise you have wires that are red ,black, white , which one is the ground ?

[rabbitreborn]

with the key on and cart in gear, you should see pack voltage on the green wire (an no voltage on the red wire). Then with the same conditions, but add in pressing the gas pedal, you should see pack voltage on the red wire.

If you are hooking the black lead to red and the red lead to green and seeing voltage (or the reverse of that), then you have a short to ground in the system.

And yes, DCS carts are the black sheep of the E-Z-GO line of vehicles. In addition to what Scotty said, you also have to ensure that you never switch from one direction to another while still in motion as it can blow the resistor/diode located on the solenoid and possibly the controller as well.

[pymoo]

Thanks for the guidance... I beginning to think the issue is in the pedal box. With the key on, there is power on the red wire, but nothing on the green, all the way to the controller. Also, the micro switch tests closed (has continuity) at both positions, on/off. i will replace the pedal micro switch tomorrow (hopefully) and see what happens!

[pymoo]

I may have spoken too soon regarding the pedal micro switch! With the red and green wires disconnected from the switch, it seems to work fine, clicking on / off, with continuity changing on/off at its terminals. What confused me is that with the red and green wires connected, it shows continuity at any pedal position (with or without pedal engagement). HOWEVER, I now realize that voltage does not appear on the green wire until the pedal is depressed (whereby the microswitch is engaged).

I still see no voltage on the white or black wires coming to/from the potentiometer at any pedal position. (I am measuring voltage with the black multimeter lead on the main negative battery terminal, and the red on the wire/terminal I am testing). Also, the solenoid is still not engaging with the pedal (no "click").

Any suggestions of what to try next???

This really baffling to me (of course, I am a noob), and I still don't understand why the reverse buzzer is not getting power with the key on and the FNR lever set to reverse. Could this be a resistor or controller issue (since the power for the reverse buzzer needs to come from the controller)?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink